Cameroon theft and injury, week 19 9-15 May 2016

I started my week with yoga and was rewarded with a heat rash. You wouldn’t think it could be that hot at 5.30am. We drove for a couple of hours on the nice new road until it turned back into dirt. We managed to do 100km between 8am and 6pm. The road became so bad we met a traffic jam

Two trucks had got stuck in the mud so we had to wait for the Chinese to come and rescue them. We’re very thankful to the Chinese as they are very good at making nice roads here in Africa.While waiting I met some cute kids, their mother saw my camera and insisted I take a picture of them.  

With not much to do we ate lunch in the truck, couscous and herbs, and played cards. When we leave a country sometimes we spend our last money on supplies and Jussi had bought lots of Pringles. So he opened his side locker shop and I got paprika flavour.

Once one of the trucks had been towed out (the other driver had gone off with the keys) we passed ten giant trucks carrying giant logs to get to the road thick with mud. 

Ryan navigated his way through while we all walked alongside. After flying off a bridge our next worst fear is tipping over in the truck. 

Ryan had no problem and stopped to tow a minivan as well. The driver got caked in mud trying to attach the winch. 

Monday night we set up camp next to a church in the village Manyemen. After we’d set up a local told us we should move to a walled compound down the road also belonging to the church. Apparently there were some shady characters living down the hill. Frazer declined the offer thinking camping next to a church will be safe enough.  

He was wrong. While we were eating someone went into the cab (the side we weren’t sitting on) and stole Ryan and Frazer’s bags. They lost their phones, Ryan’s camera, and kindle, Frazer’s tablet and wallet with credit cards. Luckily Ryan had put his wallet in the window shelf in the back of the truck. 

The head of the village came and Frazer asked for his credit cards to be returned – they don’t care about the electronics, they’re replaceable. Half an hour later a couple of us Vikings went down to the main road and found Frazer’s credit cards tossed on the road.

A policeman came and took all the details. He complained that the government didn’t supply him with anything to perform his job. He had to buy his own car and computer. Ryan told him he would reward him with some money if he typed up a report for him. It never happened.  

In the morning some chap came and asked us if we wanted him to make an announcement about the robbery. We said ok and heard him walk around with a bell ringing and shouting about the theft to anyone in earshot. They think they know who did it, an outsider, but nothing was returned.

Nigeria is supposed to have the worst reputation but Cameroon hasn’t welcomed us very well so far. Nigeria was lovely in comparison.

Tuesday was a pretty shitty day. Itchy bites, dirty people (no showers), long bumpy drive with lots of bridges. Bridges always brings anxiety since the accident but the boys always slow right down and are super careful!

On the way to Limbe we got our first glimpse of mount Cameroon. It was too misty for a good photo. Once at the coast we found a resort and immediately jumped in the pool. Cooling our bites and refreshing our skin. Some of us pitched our tent on the sandy volleyball pitch. 

After dinner we met Matt a wildlife cameraman. He’d just been in the rainforest for 3 weeks tracking gorillas. He managed to get some short footage (about 15 seconds!) of the beautiful creatures. I asked him how he got paid for doing this. He told me if you have a passion like he did with photography, you have to put in the hours and be dedicated, eventually it’ll pay off. 

His footage is for an American wildlife show and his next assignment is for Planet Earth! In storybooks gorillas are portrayed as being strong and beating their chests. Matt says their speed at moving through the jungle is what he’s amazed by. They really had to move fast to be able to keep up, even then it didn’t seem to be quick enough to have much time with them. They are incredibly shy and don’t like to be near us, quite right after our history with them.

I did twenty lengths of the pool on Wednesday and was rewarded with pink eyes! I wanted to use the trampoline but with my recent luck and the fact it was so rusty, springs were missing, I thought better of it. Jussi and Maria had to go to the doctor and both were diagnosed with malaria (Maria’s second time). I walked into town with Shani and Martina and found a large tub of vegan chocolate spread and a torch (flashlight) pen for one euro! The batteries are dead in my head torch and replacement ones are quite pricey here. 

Talks of climbing mount Cameroon inspired me to also want to go. I loved the trek in Nepal last year to 4,500 meters, mount Cameroon is 4,090 meters. A guy called Anthony came by to chat to us about it and after all the logistics I jokingly asked what the entertainment up there would be like. He told me the porters like to dance and listen to music! 

In the end only Shani, Martina and I arranged for a three days, two nights trip. We would go up one way and down another which included seeing seven craters and the lava path from a few eruptions. We didn’t have time for an extra day which would have included elephant spotting in the jungle. 

On Thursday morning we left sea level Limbe at 8am and took a taxi to Buea (pronounced Bow-ay) 45 minutes away. We arrived on time to meet Anthony at 9am but he was delayed by paperwork or perhaps last minute supply shopping. Once his bags were all packed across three backpacks we set out hiking at 10.30am and went through the upper farms and into the rainforest.  

  

At midday we reached the entrance to the national park where we took a little rest. I was soaking in sweat so I changed my top. Had to have some chocolate and some Bourbon biscuits too as my sugar levels were low. 

It started to get cloudy around us.  

We made it to hut one where we handed in our paperwork.  

And then the rainforest finished and we moved above the clouds with stunning views.  

Lunch was shared at the intermediate hut, elevation 2300m. Avocado sandwiches and bananas never tasted so good. There was a religious man walking around in a ‘one direction’ (boy band) beanie praising Jesus. When we left he handed us a religious leaflet.  

Anthony was talking to Waters and Innocence a lot and my ears pricked when I heard him say “they don’t eat fish, they don’t eat meat. They funny people.” 

We might be different but so are they… Yes that’s a backpack on his head…

The last two hours were gruelling work. Steep, with lava rock and white paint marks highlighting the way. I was constantly heavy breathing and every time I looked up the top looked further away. I was very relieved to hear it’s just over the corner. 

So many pretty flowers along the way.  

Birds singing, even passed a few cows in the beginning.  

When we reached hut two at elevation 2800m it was 5pm. Anthony went back down and left us in the hands of Waters. He has run up mount Cameroon many times coming 2nd in last years race but wanted to start being a tour guide. We set our tent up and sat by the fire. The boys cooked beans in a delicious red sauce and boiled plantains (cooking bananas) for dinner but I couldn’t eat much.  

There is an eco village currently being built so there were ten guys working three weeks on, one week off. They had fishy pasta for dinner and a little radio played cool music. 

I tried the non fishy part of a ‘Kwacoco bible’ which is made from cocoyam (a starchy staple like potato), a stock cube, salt, spices, palm kernel oil, and crayfish. It’s wrapped in palm leaves so it can be heated later and keeps for one week. It was interesting.

Day two and we were up and ready by 6.30am as per orders but didn’t leave until 7.16am. Breakfast was a banana, bread and jam, and Lipton tea. I hardly slept at all in the night as I had a headache. So I took a paracetamol and hoped for the best. Immediately setting off I experienced pins and needles in my legs and was a bit light headed. This scared me a little as I thought it might be altitude sickness. Waters advised me to go slowly and if it progresses I can turn around at any time. The pins and needles cleared but the headache lingered. It was worse anytime I sat down to rest. We ate an early lunch at 10.30am in hut three, altitude 3400m, resting for half an hour.  

Inside the hut. 

The mist came in right before we reached the summit at noon. Frazer had given us some chocolate bars to enjoy on the top. Apparently it’s tradition to give a gift to those who climb mount Cameroon. I also found salt and vinegar Pringles which were difficult to save until the top! Salt and vinegar hasn’t been available on the trip so far and is my favourite flavour.  

Pure joy. We managed to stay for 20 minutes at the top before droplets of rain began to fall.  

  

Martina

  

Shani

One last group picture before heading off down the other side. 

Rain jackets on (thanks to Lukas for lending me his) and sliding down gravelly soft stones.  

It wasn’t the nicest of days but I tried to stay chipper.   

After we’d come down a rather steep hill Waters suddenly looked confused. He wasn’t sure we’d come the right way as speedy Gonzales Shani was leading, perhaps we’d gone off track. It was difficult to tell so Waters asked us to go back up the hill. And once mounted again decided we were going the right way in the first place so let’s go back down. It became harder to stay happy after that as the rain was steadily falling and my legs were tired.  

The lava covered floor was tricky to walk over. Lots of small ups and downs and unstable ground. 

We came across the craters where the volcano had erupted years ago, the last one being 2007.  

The scenery felt almost British at some points with the rolling green hills. 

We were supposed to stop at cabin two for lunch but as there were no signs or building we missed it (?!). So we stopped around three to enjoy avocado sandwiches and a bit of Mars bar each we didn’t eat at the top. 
The rain continued to drizzle until we made it to the campsite.  

There were fancy tents for the men working there. We got to look inside one and it looked very cozy.  

Sitting by the fire we hung up our wet clothes and tried to eat as much of the red hot spicy pasta Waters cooked as we could. By now my headache had cleared and it was fun camping a bit away from camp in the forest surrounded by nature. 

Day three we left at 7.40am stopping at mansprings to fill our water bottles.  

Popping out of the rainforest we were rewarded with stunning views of Mount Akindi., 

You can see where the lava flowed to Akindi from the 1999 eruption but it didn’t quite reach the sea.  

It breaks the point where elephants will go as they don’t like to walk on the lava rock. 

I had to have a break at 10am as my blisters were sore. Waters hadn’t been planning to stop and seemed really eager to get back down. He had separated from his wife when he’d gone back to university to study Law and had a visit with his son in the afternoon. He told us we needed to go fast as it was a long way. It should take us 6 hours but if we are slow between 8 and 10 hours! I didn’t appreciate being hurried along as now we were back in the rainforest the ground was slippy, uneven and not exactly a beginners hike.  

12am I stopped again for a water break and a Bourbon biscuit. It’s important to keep the sugar levels up. The rainforest is full of life. I saw a centipede,  

millipede,

plums,  

anthuriums (I worked with these flowers in Hawaii),  

jackfruit,  

bananas, plantain, cocoyam, fire ants, and lots of unidentified flowers. Around 1pm we had a little break while Waters took some toilet paper into the woods. I crouched down off the path and there in front of me was a double horned chameleon.  

He was the same size as Arthur our Moroccan single horned Cameleon friend. I watched him do his shakey dance walk off his leaf and up a tree and when Waters came back he told me they sleep at the top of the trees. 

We reached our finish point, a small village on the outskirts of Buea, at 2.30pm. Waters seemed surprised that we’d made it in the average six hours. Shani’s really fit and Martina did well even though she’s not used to hiking being from a flat area of America. But they are both 21. I felt a bit insulted but later found out it’s a common complaint on trip advisor that guides tend to rush you. We had to wait for Innocence as he’d got back at midday and had went for a shower. 

Waters, Anthony and Innocence

Next we played catch up with the truck as it had continued on to Kribi. We took a taxi to Buea bus station. Then a shared minivan to Douala. Next we waited hours before the bus came to take us to Kribi. It was supposed to leave at 6pm but was delayed by two hours. I had to take my boots off at this point and got chatting to a young lad working at the bus station. We talked politics, racism and education. When we were hungry he took us to a bakery for veggie pastries. 

When the bus finally arrived we had to wait for the cargo to be offloaded and loaded on the roof. One ladies oranges got squashed, lots of shouting entailed. Our new friend who was helping load the bus gave us a big wave when we finally departed. We arrived in Kribi at midnight, tired and surrounded by people wanting to know where we were going and if we would pay them to drive us there. People had seen the orange truck but no one knew where it was staying, so we threw our backpacks on and started walking towards the beach. Once at the beach there was a party going on in one of the bars. I asked the lady on the door if she’d seen some white people go in. She said yes the bearded people. One with a big beard, one with strange shaved head and a little hair on top and one bald with a beard. That sounded like our Vikings! I was let in to go ask them where the truck was. Of course asking drunk people isn’t always the best of help. They were happy to see me but most unhelpful, oh yes we’re staying down the beach and you can walk it. I had told them we literally just pulled up from doing the three day hike and still had our bags. 

I was walking bare foot, I don’t think I’d off made any distance with them still on. We set off walking but had to get a mototaxi in the end as it was pretty far.  

We found out Maria had been medevaced as she was also suffering from problems in her stomach alongside malaria. Gudbjörg also went as she’s our nurse figure. She doesn’t mind all that blood and gore.

Sunday I woke up early with a swollen ankle and stiff legs. My boots have seen me upto 4,500m in Nepal, 3,500m in India and plenty other hikes so I’m not sure why I sustained six blisters, four black toenails and a swollen ankle. I don’t even remember twisting it!

It was pouring with rain in the morning so we spent the day drinking celebratory wine and playing cards. 

  

Tales of the night before revealed Kiwi Tom got attacked from behind when he went outside of the party to pee. Fortunately he saw them off. While he legged it he lost his flip flops. Jörn had left the party in search of banana chips. A friend he’d made told him he’d get some, but he needed a light to see where he was going. So Jörn gave him 3000 cfa (£3.91, €4.57) and his nice new smart phone (he broke his last one) never to see him or his phone again.

He found a wedding though and met a nice girl and her whole family.

We saw Jörn had gotten lucky in the morning as in his haste hadn’t set up his tent very well. Here’s his feet sticking out.   

 

The lady wasn’t best pleased with the soggy wet accommodations and told him off in the morning. Made him brush his teeth and change his tshirt too! Ryan, Gudbjörg and Jörn have all lost, broken or had stolen their mobiles so they made a bet between them if it happens again they will buy each other a bottle of spirits. That’s Jörn down 3000 cfa, a smart phone, and two bottles of spirits.

Nigerian nights and dancing Week 18

Nigeria is crazy busy. We drove to Benin city and stopped long enough to do some food shopping. Chaotic, smelly and filled with people. I was glad when we found a quiet school ground to camp away from the noise of the city.
 
At first we thought it was an abandoned school. On further inspection we realised today was a holiday and they’d been at school last Friday. Lots of graffiti covered the walls.
 
A young guy called Jerra came over and chatted a while. His brother Jussi followed. Surprising to hear someone else called Jussi like our Finnish Viking.
 
A group of men came over with a lawyer who quizzed us on our security. They wanted to offer some for us but we declined. At 10.30pm a police car showed up wanting to talk to us about our security too. It seems security is the buzz word in Nigeria. A little after eleven another police car came on the scene. As long as we felt secure they were happy and finally left us alone.

We stopped in Uweri for lunch on Tuesday 3rd May. Before a long day’s drive to reach Calabar. The roads were water logged and difficult to navigate. 
 
Once again the place in the idiots guide to Africa (lonely planet) was shut down but I’d spotted a place called King Harry’s Guesthouse so Ryan went and negotiated us three rooms with use of the big garden for our kitchen.  
 
Spent Wednesday walking and taxi’ing round town with Jussi and Gudbjorg. We’d heard there was wifi in the Marina Resort so we paid 100 naira (34p, €0.44) to enter. Unfortunately there was no wifi but a Nigerian man overheard us asking and offered to let us use his hotspot on his phone. Turns out Ukan has lived in Aberdeen as a student and worked in Manchester for a few years at RBS. After which he returned here to open a pizza restaurant. He drove us round town after we’d had our internet fix. He wanted to show us his pizza place, Pause his friends nightclub  
 
and a good bakery and supermarket. We were most grateful for the ride as it decided to poor down and thunder and lightening. 

The next day five people went to the hospital. All confirmed malaria, even though one of them didn’t really have many symptoms. Gudbjorg, Martina, Tom V and I went to Ukan’s pizza place for lunch. Making it into a taxi before the afternoon rainfall. In the evening we played cards and chatted to Conor a Canadian motorcyclist who is going in the opposite direction to us. Interesting and brave guy to be doing this trip solo. He gave us a cool sticker for the truck. 
 
I started Friday with yoga and washing clothes. Sandwiched in the middle Shani, Martina and I visited the monkey sanctuary.  
 
A nice guy walked us round explaining about the place and how they have a lack of funding. Eventually all the monkeys will be released into a nearby national park. One monkey has bright blue balls and is the only one in captivity in Nigeria a Pruess’s Guenon. There are two females in Cameroon so talks are happening to get them together as they are endangered. 
 
The Red-capped Mangabey monkeys interacted the most with our tour guide, the male wanted to fight him and bit his own arm, sign language for what he’d like to do to him. I think he was jealous as one of the females came over and let our tour guide tickle her tummy.  
 
The Sclaters Guenon were my favourite, all lined up like hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil.  
 
They grabbed our water bottles through the bars and let us touch their hands.  
 
This Red-capped Mangabey looks rather regal eating his carrot. 
 
I found some palm wine on the walk back and we sat in the botanical gardens and ate mangoes.  
 
The three malaria boys Travis, Lukas and Bjorn, had bought fabric and their suits were finally finished. 
   
The razor came out and they all got Mohawks. Lukas even pierced his ears to match Bjorn and Travis. 

It was high energy that night so along with the three malaria boys, Shani, Gudbjorg, Tom V and I went out out. We went to Pause nightclub but the drinks were so expensive and the place was empty we decided to try elsewhere. Following a lit up pylon we found Candyland. A much more relaxed place with plenty locals dancing and enjoying the music. The staff were attentive coming over to set us up a seating area and taking drink orders. 

Nigerians know how to dance. The girls at the table next to us were rolling their hips and the guys were trying to dance next to them. We met a group of friends Patrick, Elizabeth, Esther and David. They walked us over to the Jazz bar where Tom V was on a mission. He had to borrow Gudbjorg’s trousers to get in as it was a no short or flip flop policy. He wanted to pull and help Lukas pull too. 

Travis and Bjorn had gone home with their malaria weighing on them. Shani, Gudbjorg and I waited outside the Jazz bar chatting to our new friends. Half an hour later Tom V and Lukas marched out of the club each with two girls on their arms and jumped into a taxi. They set tents up in the garden and the girls asked for taxi money in the morning. I feel bad for Tom V’s girlfriend back home.

Saturday morning and we were on the road again at 9am. By 1pm we were back in Calabar where we’d started having taken a road that had a bridge we couldn’t cross. After lunch we tried again and made it 70km to the border. We found a palm grove to camp out in.  
 
Once set up a storm came and gave us a nice light show.  
 
My torch (flashlight) batteries died and I managed to step in a giant puddle in the dark which you can see in the above photo. The zips on the tents are all starting to break. These are our third set of tents. Gudbjorg and I used my mosquito net as a door. The tent didn’t leak too much.

In the morning we all got attacked by little black flies that left blood marks. Which gave us the feeling to get out of Nigeria.

It took us four hours to go 50km. The roads were a complete nightmare.  
 
We didn’t have to leave the truck once we finally got to the border. First we got our exit stamps, then we crossed a bridge,  
 
got our entrance stamps and drove on into Cameroon. 

The roads were narrow dirt tracks and at 5.30 pm we finally found a real road.  
 
Frazer got out of the cab and kissed the road he was so happy.  
 
We found a large clearing and got treated to another gorgeous sunset.  
 
Two eleven year old girls Angel and Judy and their dog Kombi watched us set our tents up. Angel’s parents were working across the border in Nigeria so she was staying with Judy’s parents. They told me they didn’t like school. Not because it was boring, because the teachers were no good. One day they’d like to go to America.  
 
It’s another world in which they are growing up. I took for granted my education. Here are two young girls desperate to learn but without the facilities or teachers. I told them their surroundings were beautiful and so abundant with wildlife and food. They found it funny I like plantain. They think they eat it too much! I guess you always want what you don’t have.

Beautiful Benin, Week 17

Monday morning Maria got the all clear and a course of pills and I declined a second dripping preferring a prescription of oral medication. We then left Togo and drove over to Benin. After stopping for our lunch in Hilla Condji for avacado sandwich, fried plantain and mangoes, we reached Grand Popo. We drove up and down a few times after the place we wanted to stay at was shut down. Eventually a deal was struck up for us to camp at Saveurs d’Afrique. Another beachside location.
 
They had a nice veg garden and lots of flowers.
 
Lukas and I went on a walk with our cameras. A shop with some cool recycled art out front that looked like a snowboard invited us in. It was filled with beautiful calabash lamps and pots.

Sedzro Koukou showed me the workroom where his father was carving, punching holes and painting. His father asked to take a photo of my blue t-shirt I bought in India. He wanted to use the design. Really cool shop.

Next we met two school girls on their way home Fosti and Mary-Ang. They were pointing at the camera asking Lukas to take each others photo but ran away anytime he pointed it at them. They were having fun and eventually posed for the camera.
  
Lastly we visited a cool traditionally built building. Outside wooden objects lined two tables. Inside things hung from the ceiling and art lined the walls.
  Dondo told me his name means precious in English. He seemed super chilled wearing a t-shirt with the slogan “Never regret anything, because at one time it was exactly what you wanted.”
 
I forget the father and his son’s name but there was a nice vibe in the place. I really like Grand Popo, it’s got plenty going on. I spent a euro on lots of vegan goodies in a wee shop.
 
If the sea was a little less rough I would call it a paradise.
 
Jussi made some friends at the Finnish place here so we left him and Tom V to stay an extra night. I think they made the right decision.
  
Saying goodbye to Grand Popo we stopped in Ouidah to look around town for lunch break.
 
A couple of us visited the castle which had beautiful trees out front. 

 
The guys working in the castle had a cool radio.
  Another highlight was the carved tree which Christian is admiring.
 
Afterwards we drove onto Cotonou. Unfortunately the Chinese were busy digging up the main road along the coast so we had a hard time navigating sandy roads and low hanging electricity cables. Eventually we stopped at some shacks on the beach at the very basic Chez Romane.
  
  Lukas and I went for a walk again while the rest of the Vikings sat in a pizza place. The outskirts of Cotonou doesn’t have much to see until we stumbled across a sculpture of a giraffe. Jussi would be jealous. He has a bet if he sees a real giraffe in the wild he’ll get a tattoo of one.
 
I like the tandem bicycle with the little flip flops.
  The artist was called Eric and he came over and invited us to his workplace. His house looked really smart from the outside and he let us sit on his bench while Lukas ate his daily dose of mango.
  I enjoyed watching him think about how to improve the commission pieces he was working on. There’s a lot of thought processes involved in creating art.
 
In the morning a lady with her baby on her back had set up a food stall. Christian and I went over and saw her serving a bowl of pinkish liquid with two fried dough balls for 200 cfa (£0.24, €0.30). I had no idea what it was as my French remains good for ordering my favourite food and the weather. Perhaps stretching to describing my family and their type of hair (things I remember from high school French).

My guess after tasting it, as I’m such a connoisseur, maize and some kind of fruit? It was a bit strange at first but the taste grew on me. Christian gave me his second dough ball as he’d filled up on gruel and that was my favourite part. We drove on and into Cotonou to La Guesthouse. Here we negotiated three small apartment rooms which had en suite and a little kitchen. The owner was very accommodating filling the small pool for us and buying internet data for us to tune out on. I got to sleep in a real bed!
 
He arranged for his worker to drive with us on motto-taxis to the voodoo market. It wasn’t very exciting. Lots of dead dried animals for potions to cure all kinds of ailments.

We walked back on a very hot day and all got a little red. Cooking duty was having fun elsewhere so Christian stepped up and made us all jallof rice.

On Thursday we drove to Ganvie which is a floating village on stilts. It was said if you lived above water on stilts your fellow man could not capture you and sell you as a slave. Which is how the village came about. Now it works well farming fish and buying and trading in town. It has everything from a mosque
 
To schools and hospitals.
 
I even saw a shop where you can pay to charge your phone, and a hairdressers.
 
Lawrence was our guide on our narrow boat. We all opted for the cheaper option of a no engine boat ride but this must be a gimmick or out of laziness because we used an engine.
 
I fell in love with the sun god masks which are round with horizontal mouths and eye slits. Colourful seed beads add life and interest in differing patterns.

There are even a few trees around the village.
 
Back on land we walked round the village where prices double due to our whiteness. Everyone calls us Yovo here. I had a little dance at a mango sellers stall as she was playing a cool song. They all laughed at me. In a nice way I’m sure.

Trucking on we stopped at a school at sundown. It felt really awkward as the language barrier prevented much mingling. It felt like fifty people in pockets surrounded us staring. I guess it’s like TV for them providing entertainment. I think seeing a group of three guys cooking dinner that night would have been most interesting.
 
The trees were cool where we pitched our tents.

 
The security guy was nice enough but at 12.30am some kids ran through our camp shaking a few tents calling “Yovo.” Not the best vibe from the locals.

Our next stop was in Agonie where there was a burial site and skull throne Frazer said was a must see. I was feeling a bit under the weather as my throat was soar again so enjoyed a lie down. The majority who paid a couple thousand said it wasn’t worth it as the guide only spoke French and our native French speaker is selfish when it comes to other people and their enjoyment. I.e. He didn’t translate for anybody. There were no photos allowed either.

We wild camped that Friday night in a large clearing which housed a burnt out orange truck.
 
Again about twenty locals all stood around watching us.

Dinner didn’t include a vegan option for the first time that night. I didn’t like to make a fuss and thought it was only butter but got a dicky tummy all the next day. You might not like to hear about these things but it’s a reality on a trip like this and you’d be surprised at how comfortable we have all become about talking about such things.

Saturday 30th April and we drive into Nigeria. The road either side of the border is so bad it took us 7.5 hours to drive a total of 100km! Might have had something to do with the amount of checkpoints we crossed too. Each one stopping us and questioning the boys. Some made us come down and present our passports, others wanted to see our yellow fever certificates. I complained to one guy that there were so many check points we hadn’t been able to stop for lunch and it was pushing 4.30pm already. He gave a few of us small freshly fallen mangos and water sachets to drink and wash our hands.

I’m not sure how effective Nigerian police are. One guy at a checkpoint had a man stand on his hands with his feet up the tree as a punishment for something. When he saw us coming he paused his torture until we started moving again. The two men on their knees in front of him looked like they were going to cry. I also saw him wave a big stick in there faces.

Our first night was spent in Abeokuta within a walled compound. At ten pm a few of us wanted to go out to see the nightlife. I had been speaking to the receptionist Fatima who told me there was a club down the road but when we got to the gate the security guard told us it was locked and he couldn’t open it.

After a little confusion we ended up speaking to the manager. He told us kidnapping was a problem here in Nigeria and nothing was open at this time of night anyway. We told him we wanted to walk around regardless so he compromised and said he would walk us up to the main square to show us Nigerian nightlife.

His security guard came with and what do you know but a festival was taking place that night. He told me it happens once a year but someone else told Bjorn it happens every weekend. Either way I felt a bit uneasy as it was dark and we weren’t sure what was happening.

The manager decided it would be a good idea for us to go to the front and he organised chairs and eventually tables too. Everyone had done the same with white garden furniture. I found it most uncomfortable especially because people were filming it and lots of people came up to us to film and photograph us. One guy took loads of selfies with some of us. It was like being an animal at a zoo.

The main event was some people dressed in white talking in their local language, or rather shouting down the microphone. It was religious and people kept shouting “acha” which means amen here apparently. Once or twice they stopped their preaching and had a little dance off. Amazing moves I might say.

The security guy escorted a couple of us back to the hotel and no one got kidnapped. A successful night out. Not even one mugging.

In the morning I got to Skype with my mum and dad, brother Scott and his children Primrose and Rory. I was very lucky to have access to some fast internet and the timing when my brother was up for the weekend. Other Vikings were told the Internet was down or that they would need to pay for another access code as they weren’t staying that night.

We took bets how many times we would get stopped on Sunday May 1st, but were only stopped twice. We were finally on a duel carriageway but even though there were two lanes on each side of the divider, traffic freely went in both directions on both sides.
 
We ate plantain chips from a gas station for lunch and found a nice grassy clearing to camp where no one came to stare at us.
 
Martina did her presentation on Nigeria which included some photos on her mobile. Saddest fact is not the 52 life expectancy or 67% literacy but that 95% of natural trees have been deforested. There’s still plenty trees though, I guess it’s like Britain where certain species are planted and others don’t make the chop.

I turned into the tent early because the mossies were out biting my ankles!

I really liked Benin, perhaps because I met some super cool people. Let’s see what Nigeria’s got to offer, although Frazer doesn’t like it and wants to get through it as fast as possible.

Togo illness in the wilderness and Viking helmets, week 16

Monday 18 April: Spent most of the day at the border. The hold up was lack of visas for Togo as we wanted to get them there. The Ghanaians didn’t want to let us leave without them and said we weren’t able to get them at the crossing. After much negotiations from Frazer and Ryan we had to each pay 10,000 Central African Franc (cfa) (£11.80, €15.24). It’s the first time on this trip we’ve paid a bribe. It beat driving back to Accra as the roads are rather bad:  

 
We paid another 10,000 cfa for the visas each. Unfortunately there were not enough visa stamps at the small border crossing. It was decided Ryan would go on a scooter with a border official to the next crossing to pick up the stamps. We would meet him at the police check point up the road. As nightfall neared and no sign of Ryan we were offered to set up camp in a Christian compound.  

 
On cooking duty with Christian and Gudbjorg we danced around and made red red and fried plantain (beans with red palm oil and a type of large banana). It’s one of my favourite meals! After we’d finished Ryan finally arrived with our passports all containing the required stamps.

In the morning, after hearing lots of singing from the church folk,  

 
we drove through Lomé to find Coco Beach.  

   
Just outside of the city we set up our tents on the white sandy beach. I jumped in the sea before cooking lentil burgers, chips and guacamole especially for Martina’s birthday.  

 
Because we were in Togo Martina wanted a Toga party so everyone donned sheets, scarfs, or sleeping bag liners and hung out in the small bar. I’m impressed at everyone’s effort. I wasn’t feeling too well with a sore throat so I had to leave the party early.  

 
Shani drank too much and puked next to a palmtree. She thought she was being discreet but we caught her out. Frazer had bought a Viking helmet in Cape Coast and it was decided who ever vomits because of alcohol has to wear the hat the next day until sundown.  I don’t have a picture of her so here’s the cute cat with the piercing blue eyes instead.  

 
In the morning I rested with a book and by the afternoon Tom H was suffering with malaria. Vomiting, diahorrea, fever, and convulsions. I was sweating in the night but no fever or vomiting just a sore throat. A doctor came out to diagnose him and took him for dripping and lots of pills.

The following morning Maria was also suffering with malaria but not as severe as no convulsions. She and Tom H went to the clinic for dripping and more pills. Frazer went as a translator and told Tom H as his liver has been put under strain with the malaria and medicine he shouldn’t drink any alcohol for six weeks. Really the doctor had only said one week but Tom H listened to him.

That day some Vikings went to the fetish market where voodoo is practised. I’m glad I didn’t go as it seemed a bit of a tourist trap and is full of dead animals. First they had to pay a couple thousand for entry, then a couple thousand more if you want to take photos. At least they got a little bit of explanation at what some of the things were used for. Apparently all the animals are collected after they are dead which means none were harmed specifically for the trade. Endangered animals aren’t supposed to be traded either. I’m not sure if I believe these things.

Friday I was walking along the beach and I saw some strange dolls in the sand. I wonder if they are used for some voodoo practise?  

 
I met a French guy helping set up his two Togolese artist friends work. They were batique painters. I didn’t realise how many stages are involve in the art.  

 
That night my throat was extremely sore so I took some codeine and resolved to go to the pharmacy in the morning. Saturday night the drugs the pharmacist gave me weren’t having an effect and again my throat was agony. I missed most of Frazer’s presentation on Togo because of the pain.

In the morning I went with Frazer and Maria (Tom H had finished his three dripping course) to the clinic and was diagnosed with laryngitis. I joined Maria for some dripping which gave me a giant brown bruise around the site on my wrist. It was not pleasant. It cost me 17,800 cfa (£21.01, €27.13).  

 
Sunday is a big day in Togo, especially for Coco Beach. Lots of people come and listen to loud music. The sea also wanted to party by becoming so rough and flooded the resort.  

 
We just caught our tent in time before the water came.  

 
Jonatan enjoyed himself chatting to some girls and drinking beer from morning to night. He puked at 2am and had to wear the Viking helmet the next day as punishment.  

 
Obviously he didn’t want his picture taken but I caught him in the truck resting. Another reason for me not to drink too much. FYI that blue pot next to him is filled with peanut butter which we use for cooking and breakfast…heaven!

Unfortunately Togo has been beautiful but under explored due to illness. I hope Benin will be more adventurous!

Meditation, palm wine and waterfalls, week 15

Waking up in Cape Coast and sitting in front of the castle watching the sunrise has been a highlight for me.

I never brought my camera with me because chances of waves is high.

Monday morning 11th April I spent some time meditating and watching the sun cast a golden path over the ocean right to my feet. With every wave, just as in life, the path wiggles and winds but always reaches the endpoint. A metaphor for whenever life pushes you off your path you’ll always get to the light at the end of the tunnel.

There was a beautiful pink shade emanating from the sun that day. In the clouds I could make out different shapes like turtles and dinosaurs. I received some clarity on a question that had been unanswered for years. I think there is a message for everyone at the castle.

Kobi tells me he thinks the birds which fly over the castle every morning are giving thanks. I wonder if they are the souls of the slaves imprisoned returning to fly free. I think they might be swallows?

I’m in awe of the history that took place in the castle. All the people who have been tortured, killed and sold into slavery. The castle is a beacon of strength shining out. It’s astounding what people can be put through and come out the other side.

At midday the majority of the group wanted to get going on the shared buses (trutru’s) but I wasn’t quite ready. So Shani and I hung back.

During a siesta I was lying down meditating when a big rip slashed my minds screen and I started to see in colour. Faces smiling, different scenes filled with rich colour. Before I’ve only ever been able to visualise in greyscale. It’s pretty special to start enjoying colourful scenes.

At 4pm Shani and I made our way to the outskirts of town and hitchhiked back to Big Milly’s. They call it lift lift here and instead of putting your thumb out you limply hang your hand in front of you. Kind of like waving a car down. Everyone kept telling us it wasn’t possible but it’s such a common route between Cape Coast and Accra we found it very easy.

Four cars later and we were back at Big Milly’s enjoying communal dinner and Vikings against Humanity. On Tuesday morning we all had to go to the Angolan embassy to present ourselves. The lady examining each form was very picky and a number of us had to refill a new form in as we’d either written into the margin (going off the designated line) or we’d filled the address sections wrong for our Angolan accommodation.

Once everything was in order and we’d paid $160 each we were released. I took a total of four trutru’s to get to Macarthy Down junction where Emmanuel met me and took me in a taxi to his and Nana’s house.

There we spent time chatting easily and I was treated to Nana’s homemade vegetarian Jalof rice which was delicious. Nana’s wee girl Neliah was shy at first but eventually warmed to me and showed me her favourite toys. She was happy when Emmanuel suggested we go out for a little walk to show me the piano center.

After which Emmanuel helped me catch a bus headed to Cape Coast. Christian had already set off and the others might join us in the next days. For dinner I tried Kenkey and peanut which is a bit like porridge. It was a bit weird so I was glad I’d eaten lots of Jalof for lunch.

There are quite a few orphans living in Cape Coast and a lot hang around town asking for money for food or water. One little girl asked me for money to buy fried rice. I’m not keen on giving money but when she told me her name was Lizbeth I invited her to eat with me. It cost me more than what she had asked for but it was good to see her eating a healthy meal. Some people say it’s not good to give handouts as tourists giving gifts is an unreliable source of support. There are so many children walking around selling food and drinks. Other than supporting charities like the Baobab foundation I’m not sure what to do.

Litter is also a problem throughout Africa. Some places better than others. The beach unfortunately was collecting trash on the sea line and children and locals didn’t see a problem with adding their waste to the pile. Kobi said he usually picks up and tries to teach the children. My last full day in Cape Coast, Thursday, I set out and did a litter pick. Kobi and Mon-Amie (Kobi’s assistant) saw me and pitched in. I was rewarded by finding a string of blue and white striped beads. It just so happened Mon-Amie makes jewellery with string and seed beads so I gave them to him. A little while later he presented me with a bracelet he’d made with some of the beads.

He’s from Burkina Faso and helps Kobi round the guest house. There’s no running water or electricity so he helps fetch water from the well. Kobi plans to buy some solar panels for light and so guests can charge their devices. At present they have to go over to his shop for charging.

After a well deserved bucket shower I took a tour round the castle. I’d put it off as I knew it would be somber. It was built and occupied by various European countries.  The cannons were built to fight against other Europeans trying to muscle in on the trading of goods.

The door of no return where the slaves left on ships after months of imprisonment. President Obama visited and they hung a new sign on the door leading into the castle “door of return.”

This is a view of the castle, underneath is where people were held captive.

I’ve learnt a lot about slavery having worked in a camp for underprivileged children in New York for three summers. They had a program teaching about how slaves made their journey north for freedom, traveling in lorries filled with cargo like fish or occupied coffins. We roll played as slaves making this journey then made a drawing which was hung up like bunting or prayer flags.

For my last evening I got to enjoy agoshie and banku again and a bonfire on the beach. Kobi’s dog One-Love was very sweet cuddling with me by the fire.

On Friday we said goodbye to everyone and Christian and I took three lift lift’s to right outside Big Milly’s. Christian has hitched before but not in Ghana. Kobi had never heard of such a thing and thought we’d got a lift because we were tourists. One guy that picked us up also stopped for a local guy so its nice to know that it’s not the colour of our skin that stopped the cars or the fact that the first time we were just girls.

It had been a nice brake from communal living. Some of the Vikings had been sad they were too lazy to come back to Cape Coast. On Saturday morning we headed east, camping near Hohoe. When five o’clock rolled round we spotted a football pitch and an unfinished building site.

Ryan walked around trying to find someone to ask permission but there was no one. We set up camp and played volleyball on the grass pitch while the sunset cast beautiful colours in the sky. Two teenagers came and joined in, Ebenezer and Bright, they were really good.

We had a meeting that night straightening out a few things that weren’t working in the group. Some people were slacking a bit so we were reminded to pull our socks up. The guy I’d had a problem with previously (chicken stock incident) decided he wanted all the vegetarians (a third of the group) to be more involved at buying and cooking meat. So far we had been eating a lot of vegan and vegetarian food simply because the quality and availability of meat was scarce.

In the beginning of the trip it was suggested meat eaters should get their fill of meat at lunch time but this in places was also hard. The organiser and others said that the majority of communal meals would be vegetarian.

I chose not to say anything as it’s not a dictatorship where I will be told to do something like cook meat when I’m actively choosing not to be involved in the meat industry. It wasn’t voted on and I’ve always welcomed him to buy and cook meat when we’ve been in a group together. It’s not really fair to place the lack of meat on me. Perhaps he just needs some cooking lessons from the other meat eaters. A good suggestion of cooking meat once out of three in our rotation came.

In the morning a lady called Cecilia came over to meet us. It turns out this place is hers and she’s in the process of building a community center. Every year she hosts a summer camp in August for children. Her aim is to teach against teenage pregnancy and drug abuse. She’d had a career in banking and everyone thought she must of been mad to come back to her little village to start this project. She’s already made a lot of progress.

We set up camp exactly where the kids do. It’s called the Nneka Youth Foundation if you’d like to visit the webpage click here. If I’ve time and money at the end of the trip I’d love to spend a few weeks helping out.

On Sunday we visited Wli (pronounced vlee) waterfalls. It was a two hour hike to the upper waterfall and cost 40 cedis (£7.15, €9.23). It would have been cheaper to only visit the lower falls but according to Christian, who had been before, it’s more crowded and the upper falls are more beautiful. We needed a guide and lots of brakes as the way was winding and steep. The falls were absolutely gorgeous when we finally arrived. Well worth the huffing and puffing to get there!

The area has many pretty flowers and butterflies.



I even got a good shot of a dragonfly.

I swam and meditated on a rock for a bit before taking a group photo. Our guide was eager for us to leave. One of our group had already upset him by going off on his own.

After climbing back down we visited the lower falls which had a double rainbow reflecting in the water. It was breathtaking. I was in the water approaching the fall when I saw it. By the time I’d gone back for my camera the sun had set a little more so I could only get this picture.

I really enjoyed the hike. There was so much to see including lots of messages carved in random trees.

We stayed at the bottom of the mountain with a gorgeous mango tree in the center of a grassy garden. I did some yoga to loosen up and had a shower before cooking agoshie (melon seeds) with contembre (spinach) and banku (maize) with Christian and Gudbjorg. It was delicious!

Week 15 and the last night in Ghana was pretty amazing. I’m really grateful to Christian and Kobi for sharing their favourite places with me. Seeing in colour while meditating, learning some new vegan dishes, seeing the beauty of Ghana has all been the best. And to top it off with a double rainbow circle at some beautiful waterfalls filled with colour and butterflies I’m content to say the least.

Ghanaian good times on the coast headed east. Week 14

Ghana feels good to me. I’ve been doing a lot of yoga and meditation. Our first morning at the Stumble Inn in Elmina I got to swim in the clean white sandy beach.  

Tent and truck on the grassy verge

 
Then I met Yaw who has a little shop where he makes jewellery and recycled tyre flip flops. He also sells African print clothes and bags, masks and souvenirs. My flip flops died so of course I got some cool tire ones.  

 
We played a few games of wari, the game with four seeds in each pod. You distribute the seeds and try to win as many as you can. I’ve only played it with my brother’s girlfriend Louise and lost terribly each time. It was fun to give it another go but too heavy to buy one. They come in beautifully carved wooden boxes of all shapes, sizes, and designs.

After five days of wild camping Frazer, Martina, Lukas and I headed over to the posh neighbouring resort to use the wifi. We enjoyed some gin and tonics and the ping pong table too. When I jumped in the pool I was asked to come over to speak to the lifeguard as he wanted to inform me there was a charge for pool usage. I got out as 50 cedis (£8.90, €11.50) was a bit too much when the sea is right there.

On the way back a little girl called Elizabeth was so surprised when I told her I had the same name. She invited me to her house but she couldn’t speak much English so I declined. She had really nice energy and gave me a hug at the end of our conversation. In the evening we played cards against humanity which was behind the bar at the Stumble Inn.  

Elmina is a small village next to the infamous Cape Coast. Tuesday 5th April Frazer, Ryan, Tom V and I took a taxi there and managed to bump into Christian in the supermarket. He’d had a hair cut and looked so chilled out he was almost horizontal. If Cape Coast has that effect on him I definitely want to explore more here.

We started with visiting Baobab House vegan restaurant for some drinks. They sell meringa leaf products which is apparently a super food full of vitamins and minerals. It’s great for vegans and vegetarians as it’s full of protein.  

 
It’s also a foundation for children so any money spent in the restaurant, guest house and shop goes towards helping the local kids. They have upcycled plastic goods like purses made out of water sachets and which line material wash bags. Lots of colourful hand made clothes, Shea butter, coffee and household decorations.  

 
While Frazer and Ryan went round the castle and Tom V went off with Christian I walked around town. I met a lady called Alberta who asked me to be her friend and a family down on the fishing beach who quizzed me on my origins. I bought some vegetables for dinner as Tom H had done the shopping yesterday so today was my turn. 

For lunch I met Frazer and Ryan at Baobab house again. I was surprised Frazer came back as he’s very much a meat eater and he couldn’t drink his pineapple and ginger juice earlier because it was too strong. 

I enjoyed a vegan curry with fried plantain then we headed back to the beach. Frazer told Tom H and I that if we found pumpkin he would make soup. It was a bit of a joke on his part as it isn’t pumpkin season but I bought some squash instead and he held true to his word.  

 
As Frazer cooked I got to chat to Yaw some more and meet some puppies. Most of the dogs are neutered except one couple, obviously. We had much laughing after dinner playing cards against humanity again.

In the morning we left the beautiful beach of Elmina making our way to Accra stopping in Cape Coast for 1.5 hours – far too short of a time. This was some peoples first time and many wanted to visit the castle. Out protests fell on deaf ears. 

Christian saw the truck pull up right next to his friends Bamboo Village so came over and offered to cook everyone lunch there with his local friend Kobi. This also was declined. We are headed to Kokrobite to stay at the famous Big Milly’s where an ex of Frazers works. No wonder he’s itching to get back to his favourite place. He’s lived in Ghana for years before he got kicked out. His brother and cousin also work here at the family power plant. 

The plan was to meet back at 11.30am so Christian showed me round town while most people went to the castle. He took me up to the lighthouse to see the views. Then down round the town for some munchies including fresh coconut. Lastly he showed me round Bamboo village and I met Kobi. We chatted freely and laughed a lot. 

Christian stayed here for a year five years ago and has returned a few times. Kobi is a vegan and hand built his guest house out of bamboo.  

 
He also has a shop selling his tie dye t-shirts which is all pretty cool. His label is Jah Live. I reckon they would sell really well in the European festivals if anyone’s interested?

 
We bid farewell with the thought to return for the weekend as I’ve heard the beach at Accra is not as nice and the only reason we need to stay at Accra is to submit our passports for visas for Benin and Angola. 

Just outside Accra is the little village called Kokrabite where we arrived at the renowned Big Milly’s. It’s like a little village in itself with a few different shops, juice bar, bar, restaurant, surf shop, pool table, ping pong table etc.  

 
I played a couple games of pool and got to sleep in a dorm room for a change. On Thursday 7th we submitted our passports for our Benin visa which would be ready on Monday. After this I had a wave jumping session in the sea (too rough to swim!) then walked into the village with Shani and Lukas. On the way back we met Steven who was also staying at Big Milly’s. 

Steven is a class room assistant from London with roots in Ghana. He was keen to show us around. He’s super cool with dreads down to his ankles tied up in a big knot. He tells us what he’s about, how he’s trying to teach the guys here not to hustle their drugs or sex on tourists. He’s also a waste warrior and spreader of peace and love. It all resonated, especially his message to love everyone.

Unfortunately there’s a sign on leaving Big Milly’s that reads “don’t take any valuables with you onto the beach.” It’s a real shame because I didn’t have any problem walking on the beach wth my camera. But perhaps I’m also seasoned at telling which people to avoid or I don’t give out that energy. I hope the bad reputation changes.

Steven was keen for us to meet his favourite person Angel Mike. They both left their hair natural, forming dreads, although Mike’s is a bit longer almost touching the ground. Mike is 69 years old and was suffering from another bought of malaria. He is a peaceful guy and I can see why Steven has been coming to him for years to hold counsel. They introduced us to the spirit made from palm tree roots. Brown in colour and strong in taste, it apparently has anti malaria properties both for prevention and cure. I’m not that keen. I’ll stick to Larium as I’ve not been experiencing to many side effects.

On the 8th I had another attempt at swimming then my friend Nana came to visit me. We met six years ago at an office job in Edinburgh and stayed connected through Facebook. I remember telling her back then that I would love to visit Ghana one day. And that day finally arrived. 

I also remember she had just started chatting to a Ghanaian guy. Since then she’d married him, had a little girl and then moved back to Ghana together two years ago.   

 
She brought Emmanuel and her two year old Neliah to meet me at Big Milly’s where we enjoyed the cool breeze upstairs overlooking the sea. We caught up and reminisced for a few hours before arranging to meet again on Tuesday after our Angola visa application.  

 
As most people had gone in to Accra for the day I hung out with Lukas for the rest of the afternoon. Going for a walk along the beach and revisiting Angel Mike. In the evening Gudbjorg, Shani, Ryan and Tom H joined us in going to Tribal the local nightclub. There was a big open area where we all danced our stress away. I found out the next morning that the actual club was inside but it was tiny, and it was sweaty enough outside. 

We missed playing cards against humanity so Martina being a crafty girl decided to make our own version. Cards against Vikings or Vikings against humanity, I’m not sure which but it’s a pretty funny game! After playing the morning away we left for Cape Coast. 

Ten of us in all managed to spend the majority of the day taking the local shared taxis. We arrived just in time for me to learn a new recipe Kobi was cooking for everyone.   

  
Agoshie (crushed dried melon seeds) with tomato sauce and gari (crushed cassava, smooth white paste thing). I absolutely loved the agoshie which is great for vegans as it has a lot of protein and looks a bit like scrambled egg. I’m not too sure about gari. Kobi served the food in a few bowls encouraging us to use our hands to eat. Christian bought some palm wine which was shared around in a coconut shell. As the night went on Kobi got his drum out and sung us some mesmerising tunes. He’s got a nice energy and told us all he’s just learning how to sing and play. It sounded pretty good to me.

In the morning we went to sit next to the castle and watch the sunrise. Hundreds of birds at this time fly over the castle as if to give thanks for their freedom. It’s really quite a special place. Back at Kobi’s I sat and listened to the sound of crashing waves. The beach is beautiful but the sea is a bit rough for swimming.  

 
In the afternoon we went to the market to pick up ingredients for dinner. Again I learnt a new vegan dish of contembre (spinach) and banku (crushed maize, white paste thing). The spinach was boiled and crushed in a mortar and pestle to make a creamy green sauce. You break a piece of banku (same with gari) off and use it to scoop up the sauce. I prefer banku to gari which is a bit less bitter I guess. 

Sunday night is the night to go out in Cape Coast but I was feeling quite tired. Almost everyone went out to enjoy a lively dance scene. Kobi wanted to go to a shop for some special type of peanut so we went in a taxi and the taxi drove through the street where everyone was dancing. The car could only inch forward as people jumped in front to bust a move in the headlamps. I’m glad I got to see the nightlife. 

Ghanaians might be religious people but their dancing is some of the most sexual. A lot of grinding and shaking their arses. It can be quite intimidating for us obrunis (white person, or literally translated person from beyond the horizon).

Gateway to Ghana, the Garden of Eden. Week 13

The last two days in Burkina Faso were spent walking round town, visiting the cathedral, and the big market, and then spending the day with Martina the owner of the little local restaurant who also runs a recycling plant for plastics. The cathedral wasn’t as peaceful as I’d of hoped. I noticed a young couple at the back door talking quietly and looking forlorn. A man hissed at us when we (Shani, Gudbjorg and I) exchanged a few words. I didn’t touch the holy water just in case. I’ll never forget reaching up to touch the burning bush in Saint Catherine’s in Sinai, Egypt, saying “humduallah” and it pricking me! 

 The market was extremely busy. People trying to get our attention to come and visit their shop got tiring immediately. But the fabrics were bright and colourful and I couldn’t resist to buy one 3 meter strip. 

Lukas, Shani and I got the privilege of seeing how some of Ouagadougou’s plastic is collected, shredded, cleaned and reformed into bags. It was pretty cool to see the whole process. Apparently the government give a small amount of money towards the project but the main contributors are private businesses.   

  Also at the site Martina has a large vegetable garden. The crops being used for her restaurant no doubt. She drove us by scooter to visit the plant with her young son strapped to her back the whole time. Shani and Lukas borrowed her daughters scooter. 

Next she drove us to her brewery where we got to see the process of making the local beer. It’s boiled then filtered, stored in sunken pots, boiled again then left to ferment.  

  
We bought a bottle of alcoholic and alcohol free and Martina gave us some gifts before we had to say goodbye to Ouagadougou.  

 Travis and Bjorn had gone off again in search of another masked festival outside of Bobo. Because our passports had been in the embassy the boys took photocopies. Bjorn, however, has two passports and decided he’d try using his second one. But without a visa the police chucked them both in jail for four days before they were able to retrieve there passports, show their visas and free themselves. They were then off to Cote d’Ivory and would meet us in Ghana. 

We spent one night wild camping before heading to the border on the 30th March. Right by the side of the road we were treated to an elephant sighting. He was so cute just hanging out eating some leaves. As soon as we saw him we all shouted “elephant” and stared at him. He took one look at us and ran off. We resolve to be a bit quieter next time we see some wildlife! 

 Entering Ghana was swift and hassle free. The first thing I noticed is how much God is worshipped here. Half the shops, if not more, have a God or Jesus theme in the title. “God’s time is best,” “Gracious God,” “The blood of Jesus” etc. I like the names of the nightclubs too like “no sweat, no joy.” 

We set up camp in a clearing next to a little path where lots of bicycles go by. Slowly slowly people came over to check us out. They all shook each of our hands and some bowed down. I thought that was really nice as I can be shy to go up to people. Them being so friendly might beat the Burkinabes at the friendliest nation contest.  

 One old guy takes a shine to us and offers us a drink of his local beer. Lukas in return shares our beer we got from Martina. After dinner I gave my speech on Ghana. Everyone was assigned a country to read up on. I got some good feedback once I’d finished. Maybe I’ll do a blog post with the information I got although some of the statistics I felt were a bit biased.

In the morning Christian also left us as he has spent a year in Ghana before volunteering. He was headed straight to cape coast to visit friends. We would take a bit longer in our Beast with top speeds of 57km/h. We pushed on and visited Tamale for an early lunch break. I bought avocado, papaya, dried coconut flakes, and some donuts all for only the equivalent of one British pound (€1.28, $1.45)! 

 I like how direct and colourful the Ghanaians are with the English language. When I asked if there was a toilet at a petrol station I was told no. Could I kindly leave the shop, pause, and ask the attendant outside. Then I was asked “do you need to urinate?” As there was actually no water to use the toilet but there was a urinal I could use out back. 

We camped close to Mole (pronounced mo-leh) National Park so we could go on Safari the following morning. After some discussions and paying 40 cedi (£8, €10) entrance fee we decided to go on a walking safari. We would cover less ground but decided we would see more without the noisy truck. Sure enough we were treated to seeing 17 elephants grazing. It was a privilege and so peaceful to see them in a wild setting albeit a national park.  

   
 
We also got to see plenty springbuck, vultures, and warthogs.  

    
 We had to go to the staff compound to see lots of baboons. 

   
And we saw the head of a crocodile pop out on the lake while we were hanging out at the hotel’s swimming pool’s viewpoint.  

   
While at the pool a baboon tried to steal stuff from two of the other Europeans tables which was quite funny. However, I shouldn’t have laughed, one of the trucks windows was left open and a baboon had a party in there. At first we thought it was an April fools day joke but there was a footprint and a poo left for us as thanks. They enjoyed the leftovers anyway.  

   
That evening we got another beautiful display of nature when a giant storm rolled right by us. Three men came over to say hello so I quizzed them whether they thought the storm would hit us or not. They thought originally three hours and it would rain here.  

 It was their land we were camping on where they grow cassava, maize, yam and corn. I didn’t quite catch their names, I should have asked them to write them down. One started with Abu. They were from the Genga tribe mainly, in a large village of fifty people! I told him that wasn’t very large at all and they laughed. 

The storm didn’t end up hitting us at all but we were treated to lots of lightening. We felt a few rain spots and a lot of wind, rather lucky actually. Lukas and I enjoyed playing with our cameras trying to capture the lightening. I only got a couple of good shots of the lightening itself, but I did catch some amazing colours in the sky. 

   
The next day we spent driving all day heading south for the beach! I enjoyed some rice and sauce with Jonatan and Jussi in a little village. With my head out the windows I spotted the sign for Kintampa waterfall so called out to Ryan to see if we could stop. We paid five cedis to enter and spent an hour refreshing ourselves under the cool falls. 

   
We camped in another farm which was a logging area. Enjoying a beautiful sunset among the trees. Lots of trucks with giant logs wider than the trucks went by with no lights on after sunset.  

   
On the 3rd April we reached Kumasi for lunch and food shopping. It’s the largest city in Ghana with a lot going on. Except for the fact it was Sunday! Only a small amount of vegetable sellers were out with their stock. One lady we bought some peppers from was very thankful that we had come back to her to buy. She was really happy. 

It was also Gudbjorg’s birthday so we pushed hard to reach Elmina. It was the first day since Europe that we drove in the dark but it was worth it. The Stumble Inn was right on a white sandy beach. We pitched our tents on the soft sand.  

 Gudbjorg, as you can probably tell, is a rather hard name to pronounce. The Icelandic ‘d’ should have a line through the top and be pronounced like a quiet ‘th’. In Denmark her nickname is good-bear. Some of the boys call her good-beer. I found a thermal mug with Angel-bear written on it for a gift. 

Unfortunately that night my teammate was having a bad day. We were on cooking duty and made veg and noodles for dinner. We did one with chicken stock and one with vegetable stock but when we came to serve he decided to tell everyone it’s all vegetarian. I’m not sure if he just hasn’t been getting enough meat at lunch time or he had pms but Frazer told me he’d speak to him if I needed. I didn’t as its a small thing but now chicken stock is a running joke.

It’s not all fun fun fun this traveling malarkey. Living with 14 other people has its challenges. It’s certainly teaching me how not to be bothered by other people’s bad moods. I think I mentioned before patience would be a big lesson and I think I’m getting there. Learning to give love out to everyone regardless of their behaviour is important. Love is the only way to bring peace into your heart. At the end of the day we are only responsible for ourselves.

Burkina Faso- Burkinabes the friendliest people on Earth? Week 12

With a clear head and an empty stomach we left Bobo on the 21st March. Frazer had been complaining that I hadn’t sat up front yet so for most of the days drive I had the privilege of sitting in the front cab. The first half of the day with Frazer.  

Frazie

 
I was impressed at the amount of bicycles I saw, especially when a large group of women all went flying by. We’ve also been seeing lots of traditional round houses which look super cool to me. 

View from the front cab

 
The second half of the day I sat with Ryan relaying travel stories and dreams of future expeditions. There are so many mangoes for sale right now I’m in heavan. When five o’clock came we started to look for a road to get into the bush. The main road is raised somewhat so when we spot a dirt path going off we take it and find a lovely place surrounded with trees. 

‘God is lonely’

 
Lukas and I walk back into the village we passed through called Ouazadougou. As night was fast approaching I marked the entrance to our camp with a cross and dropped a metal star I found in the middle, taking note of the road bollards and a few distinguishing trees. 

We were welcomed into conversation on our arrival. Lukas has a good grasp of the French language whereas I still struggle with the different accents. We watched the boys play football, some going barefoot, and took some photos. Some of the boys wanted their photo taken with us and a few wanted Lukas’s contact details. I don’t have a mobile so I only got given one phone number.

As the moon rose and my tummy grumbled we navigated our way back to camp successfully relocating my star and cross.

The others had been whittling themselves 12 pins and a throwing stick for the game we learnt in Bamako- Molkkü. Unfortunately the piece of wood they chose wasn’t heavy enough and the game wasn’t quite as much fun.

I’m not sure what happened to us on the 22nd but we all ended up swapping clothes for the morning. It was hysterical as it wasn’t only the clothes we swapped but personalities too.  

Gudbjorg, Tom H, Maria, Tom V, Martina, Jussi, Gudbjorg, Elizabeth, Shani, Lukas, Travis, Bjorn, Christian

 
We called a pee break so Frazer and Ryan could join in but they declined. 

Jussi, Tom V, Tom H, Bjorn, Christian and Elizabeth with a she wee?

 
Apart from police check points Jussi said he was feeling far too comfortable in my clothes and we should therefore change back. We reached the capital Ouagadougou relatively early so headed into town in search of cheap passport photos for our upcoming visas. Along the way we found some delicious juices. First I had an orange frozen drink, then bissap (hibiscus), and then cashew juice! 

Shani, Elizabeth (me), Gudbjorg and Martina

 
We happened across a pizza restaurant I’d read about in our guidebook and I treated myself to a belated birthday pizza. In the evening we enjoyed a few beers in the shack next to our hotel de la liberte. 

Near the hotel is a small market place with many women selling fruit and vegetables. In the centre a few benches create a little restaurant. Here I tried some strange food, basically some white stuff and some green stuff. Plus some locally brewed beer which comes with or without alcohol.  

 
Wednesday afternoon I walked round town with Jussi taking photos of shops with friends names, old trucks and interesting architecture.

On Thursday 24th the Vikings hired scooters and a taxi and went off to a village which lives alongside some crocodiles. There’s something I find really creepy about crocodiles so I decided to stay behind and go visit Nimba Art shop to spend some birthday money instead. I got an opal necklace and a fold away orange shopper bag with blue birds (you can see it bottom left in the photo above). Thanks mum and dad 🙂

I enjoy scooters but our Vikings are a crazy bunch. They successfully went to the croc village and back but then as they had a few more hours they ventured out again. Ten minutes later they were back and Gudbjorg had massive scrapes and bruises. She’d run into a fruit stand and had to pay a fine of 50,000 francs (£59, €76) between the bike guy and the fruit stand seller. 

 
In the evening there was a movie viewing of “Road to Ouaga” a story of two men trying to make their millions and the downfalls they face. I enjoyed it very much. 

 
Friday was spent enjoying gin and tonics with Frazer again. We were waiting for our Ghanaian visas, and since Frazer was politely asked to leave Ghana five years ago when his political party lost an election, he was quite worried about whether we would get them. Hence his level of gin intake and his departure to bed at 4pm. 

Jussi, Frazie, Martina, Ryan, Gudbjorg and Shani

 
The rest of us went over to another Institut Français for Ouagadougou’s rock festival. It was pretty decent, slow to start but the line up got better as the night went on. The last band to play ‘Joke’ was a real highlight. Everyone was up dancing, jumping around and waving there hands in the air. I wish I’d gotten their CD it was so good. 

 
Saturday Jussi treated me to another pizza at the same restaurant due to him loosing the bet we had. And then the boys went off to watch a football game and I watched a movie Maze Runner.

Sunday I had the fabulous idea to swap our communal dinner for lunch instead. Then we could all mosey over to the Ouagadougou’s reggae festival in the afternoon as it is a bit of a trek out of town and started at 8pm. And it was the best meal we’ve had yet – chips and peanut sauce sleeping camel style! Frazer treated us all to gin and tonics again and was in bed by 3pm.  

 
So we set out and did a pub crawl on the way. We only found two places to stop at that was inviting. The first was next to the pizza place, a large garden with art and crafts, the second a road side locals bar. 

Three things happened that night. The first while walking along I stepped over a sewer about a foot wide thinking “that would be easy to fall into.” Then I saw a lady sitting by a door and we exchanged “Bon nuit (good night).” Then I fell into the matching sewer, on the other side of the gate, hand planting the ground. I quickly got back up, chuckling, as my fellow Vikings asked if I was alright. I only got a scrape on my heel and shin.

The second thing to happen while also walking along was a scooter flying by attempting to grab my bag off my shoulder. Luckily for me I caught a firm grip on it and my Vikings again laughed as all I could think to do was stick two fingers up at them. Then in my girlie voice swear f you. 

Now I was beginning to think what the third thing to happen will be but thankfully it was a compliment. Once we’d queued for ages to get into the festival and then went back out to get a beer a cute guy tried to chat me up. I left to go sit with my friends and he brought his phone number over to me. I wasn’t interested but it’s always nice to feel wanted. 

The festival itself was much bigger than the rock one the night before which felt aimed at foreigners. Tonight it was more about the locals and the vibe was amazing. Lots of people dancing and singing along. We found out after that the last singer was an original member of Bob Marley’s wailers. How cool is that?!

On our way home we took a taxi and after a while of not being lucky one hunk of a car pulled up already with one lady inside. He asked us where we were going and we negotiated a price. We were a bit confused, however, as he was adamant that all seven of us would fit inside the five seater. 

Eventually I threw my hands up, said “OK” and off we went. Six in the back, three in the front. Every bump and turn the car made awful grinding noises and we were most pleased when we got to our street. We enjoyed the short stroll back up to the hotel all in one piece. Sometimes you just gotta let go and see what happens!

Bamako baby and beyond to Burkina Faso week 10 and 11

We spent a long day driving on the 7th of March. The road between the border of Senegal and the capital of Mali, Bamako is pretty bad. Lots of missing pieces and much braking by our driver. The truck is a beast but the suspension is bouncy so with any bump a number of us are hovering on our seats. We find lots of fried food in a small town where we stop to get petrol. Fried plantain (looks like a banana but you can’t eat it raw), chips and onion rings.

After wild camping for the night near Diema we arrive in Bamako at the sleeping camel. Everyone’s excitement is tangible.  

Tom H, Jussi, Lukas, Shani and Gudbjorg filling in nonsense on the hotel forms

 
Showering, cold beer and civilisation after five nights camping in the bush is heaven. In the bar a cool mist is sprayed every few minutes. Thin pipes run around the ceiling so the cool mist descends on the patrons. 

Christian and Jussi

 

Free mosquito repellent lines the counter, there’s a stack of games and two widescreen TVs. Lizards, rabbits and birds scuttle, hop and perch around the place. We’re lucky enough to arrive during happy hour. I settle down with a cocktail and check my email. I got the sad news my mum’s cousin Dinah passed away on the 6th. She’d been diagnosed with bowel cancer about a year and a half ago. When I’d left for this trip I didn’t think she wouldn’t be there to hear my tales and look at my photos when I got back.

I don’t have a big family and Dinah was more like an Aunt. When she visited she’d always bring something from the Tunnocks factory (Scottish cake and chocolate biscuit company) she lived close by to. 

She was an inspiration having traveled a lot herself and she taught me to go for it. Life is short, do it when you’ve got the chance.

So the next days were spent in thought about family and the fragility of life. Dinah’s side of the family mostly live in England and before I left for this trip I attended her youngest nephew David’s wedding. I haven’t seen most of them since the middle son Steven’s wedding when I was about twelve so it was really nice to reconnect. David has a similar taste in music to me playing a lot of 90’s music, indie and ska. I enjoyed dancing with my mum and chatting to Steven’s family at our table. 

I was sad I wouldn’t be there for the funeral. My passport was needed as we got our Burkina Faso visas on the 9th and then on the 11th they went in for five days to get our Nigerian visas. If I was to leave I would need to wait, then find my way to Burkina Faso where there’re no direct flights from the UK. I know my mum missed me but she assured me it was too expensive and difficult logistically to come back for. 

The highlights of Bamako included drinking gin and tonics with Frazer, walking around town buying food and drink like hibiscus and ginger juice and rice and peanut sauce, and Friday night after winning scrabble going dancing. Loved it!

The end of the night is a bit hazy as people left but Jussi and I continued to other clubs. The first we played a terrible game of pool. The second we drank extortionate rum and cokes and smoked peppermint shisha. I’m not sure what time we got home at but Saturday’s live music was enjoyed from a horizontal position on the sofa under the fan.

We went on a river cruise on Saturday too. I was a bit queasy to fully enjoy. Plus there was human poo in the water but that didn’t stop most of the Vikings going for a swim!  

  
The sleeping camel is a base for UN officers so there were lots of men in uniforms walking around. One Dutch man was called Battenberg which made me chuckle as we have a cake of the same name at home. Another dutch man took a shine to Martina and on Sunday 13th March he invited us to a respectable hotel to use their swimming pool. I’m surprised they let the boisterous boys stay.  

Tom V, Lukas, Gudbjorg, Shani and Travis

 
Back at the sleeping camel a Finnish game called Molkkü is played every Sunday afternoon. Travis and I were invited to join and I won a free shot of gin. If you hit all of the pins down in one go or if you call the top three high numbers and get it the bar will give you a free shot. I got all the pins down on the first shot. It’s a bit like bowling but you throw a stick at the twelve pins and where they fall you stand them back up. First to fifty points wins. 

We played again later in the week with the rest of the Vikings and loved it so much we plan to make our own set. 

Monday I went to the park and up to a view point over the stadium with Lukas, Shani, and Gudbjorg. Lots of runners and fitness people frequent the park as there is a gym in the middle and the run up the hill is good training. We sat at the top watching them, while we laughed and ate mangoes.  

Mango seller Bamako

 
Wednesday 16th was Travis’s birthday. He was a very lucky boy getting free drinks at the bar all day. I gave him a small swimming pool which a few of us tried out in the evening. His night ended when he vomited on a nightclubs bar.

We got our passports back and bid farewell to the hospitality of the sleeping camel on Thursday 17th. The manager Phil gave us 24 cold beers to send us on our way. Of course with the heat the beers are best drunk cold. What with it being Saint Patrick’s day we got into a happy vibe on the truck painting green braveheart style lines on our faces and singing songs.  

Jussi, Travis, Shani, Martina, Christian, Lukas, Bjorn, Ryan, Maria, Tom H, Gudbjorg, Frazer, Jonaton, Me and Tom V in the truck

 
We discovered the most delicious drink in the world pastis and hibiscus juice. It tastes like a sweet (candy) I used to eat as a child. By lunch time our alcohol was finished so Bjorn and I decided buying 50% mint alcohol would be a great idea.

We finally parked and set up our wild campsite at 5pm, I was on cooking duty. Paddy day potatoes needed peeling but I was having trouble holding them. They kept slipping out of my hand and landing in the dirt. It was most amusing to those around me. So the babies that were laughing while setting up their tent got some thrown at them. I ended up on the floor in the dirt before going to bed early. Bjorn used our breakfast papayas as a pillow before loosing his camouflage tent. Best paddy’s day ever!

On the 18th we crossed over into Burkina Faso. Buying food from the markets I found the people to be most friendly, laughing a lot and not minding if my French isn’t up to scratch. We wild camped one night before reaching Bobo-Dioulasso where I hit tummy troubles. 

On the 19th we were very lucky to be able to go along to a Fete des Masques. This is a traditional celebration when somebody important dies. It doesn’t happen too often and for 3000 francs (£3.60, €4.50) foreigners are welcome to come and watch. A number of men and children dress up in masks and grass outfits. They start by jumping around and visiting houses. You’re not allowed to touch or talk to them unless they talk to you.   
Then in a clearing, one by one, they dance to music of the lute and small drums beaten by a cane. They are looking for and warding off spirits that could prevent the deceased person reaching paradise.  

  It got really hot and dusty watching them I can’t imagine how the dancers felt. 

Some people were doing acrobats between performers. Some of the performers especially the children were escorted away after their stint or helped to sit back down. 

On our way home we stopped by the Institut Français for some live music and dance performances. It was pretty cool but I had to have an early night due to my tummy. 

 
20th March arrived and time to celebrate my birthday. I started with a morning swim followed by some birthday beers bought by Bjorn, Travis and Frazer. By midday I was feeling pretty rubbish though so took myself off to a pharmacy. What with it being Sunday it wasn’t until the fourth pharmacy that I found one open. There were the most beautiful clouds in the sky with rays of sunshine illuminating the brilliant white.

People call out ‘white person’ a lot here, sometimes I say hi, sometimes not. A few people ask how are you. One guy asked before I got to the last pharmacy and I decided to tell the truth. He was so concerned once I’d finished at the pharmacy and popped my pill he had gotten his scooter and wanted to give me a lift home. 

I couldn’t remember the name of the hotel we were camping at so I just directed him the way I’d come. Until I saw a hotel I’d heard had good wifi so I asked to stop there so I could speak to my mum and check my messages. A white lady out front told us the Internet was down but suggested some other places. Ben happily drove me to three other places before giving up. The kindness of strangers strikes again. I remembered the name of our place Villa Bobo and went for a lie down before vomiting in the toilet.

The evening was spent on the couch where Shani and Gudbjorg gave me a vegan chocolate cake and a colourful teapot so I can enjoy teapot showers in the bush. Jussi gave me a batique wall hanging he and Martina, Maria and Tom H bought. It has Africa and lots of musical instruments on it. Everyone signed my card in their own language which made it very difficult to read!  

 
Vomiting and tummy problems aside my Vikings made the day memorable!

From Mauritania into Senegal no sleep till Bamako week 9

Leap day February 29th we were due to leave Nouakchott at midday. This meant we had to leave our paradise beach spot rather early. I barely got two hours sleep but thought I’d be able to sleep on the truck so it’d be ok. 

When we got back to the Auberge Sahara the five guys who went off to take a free ride on an iron ore train weren’t back yet. It is the longest train in the world if you’re into that kind of thing. 

Frazer has always warned us: If you’re not on the truck when we tell you we’re going, then we’re going without you. With the clock ticking since the accident we’ve been trying to get back on schedule. After a few phone calls the boys are told they will be able to follow us in a taxi to the security checkpoint we will be sleeping at. It’s very close to the border as the plan is to camp there and go early. With border crossings you can never tell how long they will take so it’s best to arrive early.

Senegal wasn’t in our original plan but it is a welcome addition. Unfortunately an IS attack has been reported around 260km away from our route through the northwest of Mauritania headed into Mali. We therefore change our plan and head straight down south to Senegal and will go west from there into Mali instead.

Our last night in Mauritania Lukas and I went for a walk into the village. He could tell I’d been a bit down lately so it was nice to talk. There wasn’t anything much to see in the village apart from the mosque. When we were passing it by two teenagers beckoned to Lukas to come in. I told him to go and have a look, I would hold his bag. I should have warned him just to look but Lukas being Lukas decided he would give praying a go. Obviously he didn’t do it correctly and the village elders stared him down until Lukas made a swift exit. The whole praying community followed him out to question us. 

Twenty or thirty men and boys surrounded us asking where we were going, staying and why we were here. It felt half threatening half joking as the younger boys sniggered and giggled. We told them our route and that we were camping next to the police checkpoint. The president of the village guessed this and grumbled that this is not a place to walk. He started to make a call to the police checkpoint and after nervously laughing some, Lukas and I made another swift exit.

On our return I discovered Jussi drinking a beer in the truck. That meant I won the bet and he said he would buy me dinner in a fancy restaurant. But, he told me, can we do it in Burkina Faso because it’s cheaper there? 

 

We both had two nights of drinking since our bet on 18th January. Me on the 31st because of the stress of the accident and then we both had some wine on 17th February at Camping Nil. Jussi got a free drinking ticket some where in the desert after that. This meant I’d had two weeks then just over two weeks then just under two weeks of being sober. Jussi on the other hand got a full month in there. 

As we where leaving Mauritania, a dry country, us Vikings decided we would drink all the alcohol on the truck. We’d stocked up in Spain and had beers, sangria and red wine. Going into Senegal there would be plenty places to restock. So that’s what we did, waiting for the five wanderers. 

We had been slightly worried about them as we had their passports. At around five o’clock the police came over to check said passports after receiving a phone call from another checkpoint a few kilometres away. We weren’t sure why it was taking so long. They eventually rocked up, covered in iron ore soot, at gone 11pm. They helped us finish the booze as they were tired, dirty and incase you didn’t know, there are no showers in the wild.

Morning breakfast before hitting the border

 
On the first of my favourite months (it’s my birthday in March) we made it into Senegal. Not forgetting Tom H’s lost bet forfeit of running a naked kilometre through the desert beforehand. We went through a nature reserve and alongside warthogs, cows and birds Tom ran for it. He had to hide in a bush when another car overtook us!

The border crossing was nice and easy. Considering we all felt a bit nauseous this was a blessing. Not only did it not look like we’d changed countries, we didn’t even need to leave the truck. Our passports went in for an exit stamp, then an entrance stamp and a free visa. One policeman came on board to look at our passports and that was it.

We headed straight for Saint Louis to spend two nights in the capital. The first night I watched everyone get drunk. I had a bad feeling about an elderly relative of mine and I didn’t want to drink. On the second day Jussi and I went and took a bus much like this one:

We went round the town stumbling across an amazing sweet and savoury pancake place. I couldn’t say no as the day before I hadn’t been able to find any meat free food let alone vegan.

Streets of Saint Louis

Recycled art paintings to inspire us:  

That night I thoroughly joined in the drinking with gin and tonics which are supposed to help prevent malaria. Saint Louis is known for its live music scene so we went out to a bar and eventually found some. The place was small with a few tables across two rooms. It felt smokey and dimly lit.

Four guys came slowly marching in, took four chairs in a row and started playing and singing their hearts out. One of them was so into his melody both feet were in the air, head back and fingers plucking his traditional Kora guitar. It was quiet something. His voice will stay with me for years to come.

Lukas, Travis, Jussi and I were the last four standing so we decided to see if we could go clubbing. We found a little place even more dimly lit with a small square dance floor. We managed to make use of the space freely popping some moves. Eventually some locals got up to dance and apparently the done thing is to watch yourselves in a floor length mirror I had been avoiding eye contact with previously. 

At the end of the night after two taxis broke down on us we had to walk the few kilometres home. I hope this is not going to be a theme!

Easy walk along the water all the way

 
With the worst hangover we headed out onto the road east with three colourful nights wild camping before reaching Mali. Our first night a group of women and girls came with a radio and stood about watching us. Their French wasn’t too good so we chatted a little and they enjoyed seeing the photos I took of them.  

 I love their colourful fabrics and pretty cornrolls (braids). They seemed to enjoy watching our strange proceedings of setting up the tables and chairs and a few people preparing dinner. I think they thought I was most weird when the language barrier prevented us from fully understanding each other. 

I asked if they had email so I could send them their photos but they just wrote down their names in my notebook. Aminata, Aissata, Ibrahima, Arminata and Falimata.

 
A couple of them had two short lines scarred on each side of their face on the outer side of their eyes which I believe is a sign of marriage. I also noticed green tattoos extending their bottom lip halfway down their chins which I still don’t know why some women have it and others not. 

 The  terrain is changing everyday. This area is particurally spikey and we have to pick the spikes out. I don’t know how many jags we all got!

Christian picking spikes out of his flip flops

 
The next day I climbed a tree to see some Lizards after going on a short walk bird watching. Two men passed by and thought we must of looked really hot. They offered a few glasses of goats milk with big chunks of ice in it. I didn’t partake but thought the gesture sweet. 

 Our third night a few people climbed the Baobab tree we camped next to. No visitors except a baby scorpion sighting while Maria was peeing and a praying manta. 

Baobab trees are leafless, looking like they’ve been turned upside down, according to folklore because they were too vain

 

On 6th March  we had another really easy border crossing into Mali. Lots of huge trucks lined the roads. Some men were snoozing under their trucks, others eating or drinking, some washing. I wonder how long their border crossing takes. We didn’t need to leave the truck again and we wondered whether we were in Mali or not.  Thankfully we purchased our visas in Mauritania for 6500UM (£14.60, €18.60)

Another night of wild camping not far from a river. A few of us enjoyed a wee dip (small bathe) while the locals herded round us laughing at our strange ways. They told Lukas there are crocodiles in the river and that they use it as a toilet, to wash their clothes and animals.    
 
The only girl to follow us back to camp chatted with me. Her name is How and she’s got a great attitude.

Some of our boys climbed the Baobab tree and Tom H started a war with them, throwing sticks and whatnot up at them.   

Tom H looking for something to throw at Travis

 
He got the local boys involved and one pulled out his slingshot. 
  

 
They were happy kids, enjoying having their photos taken. It was quite an effort to get them all to leave at the end of the night. Frazer eventually switched our truck light off which did the trick. There will be another two days of driving before we reach the capital Bamako so we’re not up too late.  This meant we could enjoy a gorgeous sunrise while eating breakfast.

     

It’s been heating up and napping is getting more frequent. As is purchasing little sachets of water. I don’t like the excess plastic consumption but when your water bottle contents starts to boil needs must. We’ve gotten used to people coming up to the truck selling them alongside nuts, fruit, cakes and phone credit.

Sometimes it’s hard to find vegetarian options at lunchtime so we keep a supply of hot water in a flask and some of us have couscous and condiments stashed in our lockers. Occasionally the leftovers from the night before stretch to lunch but we snack so much when we’re driving they’re usually gone by lunchtime. 

We’ve entered mosquito and annoying bug territory and start on our antimalarial medication. Two people won’t take any (one has Malerone for treatment), five of us are on Larium, four on Malerone and four on doxycycline. My Larium group rename Friday as Larium Friday to help us to remember and Jonatan kindly sells me some pills until we reach a pharmacy that stocks it. 

Apparently strange dreams are reported after you’ve taken a few doses so I’ll let you know how it goes in a few weeks. I don’t tend to like pharmaceuticals preferring a natural lifestyle but one of the doctors at my practice has seen two people die from it and with all the internet research and the fact mosquitos tend to love my sweet blood I’d rather be safe than sorry. 

Sometimes you’ve just got to do it. After all this is Africa where anything can and will happen!