Waking up in Cape Coast and sitting in front of the castle watching the sunrise has been a highlight for me.
I never brought my camera with me because chances of waves is high.
Monday morning 11th April I spent some time meditating and watching the sun cast a golden path over the ocean right to my feet. With every wave, just as in life, the path wiggles and winds but always reaches the endpoint. A metaphor for whenever life pushes you off your path you’ll always get to the light at the end of the tunnel.
There was a beautiful pink shade emanating from the sun that day. In the clouds I could make out different shapes like turtles and dinosaurs. I received some clarity on a question that had been unanswered for years. I think there is a message for everyone at the castle.
Kobi tells me he thinks the birds which fly over the castle every morning are giving thanks. I wonder if they are the souls of the slaves imprisoned returning to fly free. I think they might be swallows?
I’m in awe of the history that took place in the castle. All the people who have been tortured, killed and sold into slavery. The castle is a beacon of strength shining out. It’s astounding what people can be put through and come out the other side.
At midday the majority of the group wanted to get going on the shared buses (trutru’s) but I wasn’t quite ready. So Shani and I hung back.
During a siesta I was lying down meditating when a big rip slashed my minds screen and I started to see in colour. Faces smiling, different scenes filled with rich colour. Before I’ve only ever been able to visualise in greyscale. It’s pretty special to start enjoying colourful scenes.
At 4pm Shani and I made our way to the outskirts of town and hitchhiked back to Big Milly’s. They call it lift lift here and instead of putting your thumb out you limply hang your hand in front of you. Kind of like waving a car down. Everyone kept telling us it wasn’t possible but it’s such a common route between Cape Coast and Accra we found it very easy.
Four cars later and we were back at Big Milly’s enjoying communal dinner and Vikings against Humanity. On Tuesday morning we all had to go to the Angolan embassy to present ourselves. The lady examining each form was very picky and a number of us had to refill a new form in as we’d either written into the margin (going off the designated line) or we’d filled the address sections wrong for our Angolan accommodation.
Once everything was in order and we’d paid $160 each we were released. I took a total of four trutru’s to get to Macarthy Down junction where Emmanuel met me and took me in a taxi to his and Nana’s house.
There we spent time chatting easily and I was treated to Nana’s homemade vegetarian Jalof rice which was delicious. Nana’s wee girl Neliah was shy at first but eventually warmed to me and showed me her favourite toys. She was happy when Emmanuel suggested we go out for a little walk to show me the piano center.
After which Emmanuel helped me catch a bus headed to Cape Coast. Christian had already set off and the others might join us in the next days. For dinner I tried Kenkey and peanut which is a bit like porridge. It was a bit weird so I was glad I’d eaten lots of Jalof for lunch.
There are quite a few orphans living in Cape Coast and a lot hang around town asking for money for food or water. One little girl asked me for money to buy fried rice. I’m not keen on giving money but when she told me her name was Lizbeth I invited her to eat with me. It cost me more than what she had asked for but it was good to see her eating a healthy meal. Some people say it’s not good to give handouts as tourists giving gifts is an unreliable source of support. There are so many children walking around selling food and drinks. Other than supporting charities like the Baobab foundation I’m not sure what to do.
Litter is also a problem throughout Africa. Some places better than others. The beach unfortunately was collecting trash on the sea line and children and locals didn’t see a problem with adding their waste to the pile. Kobi said he usually picks up and tries to teach the children. My last full day in Cape Coast, Thursday, I set out and did a litter pick. Kobi and Mon-Amie (Kobi’s assistant) saw me and pitched in. I was rewarded by finding a string of blue and white striped beads. It just so happened Mon-Amie makes jewellery with string and seed beads so I gave them to him. A little while later he presented me with a bracelet he’d made with some of the beads.
He’s from Burkina Faso and helps Kobi round the guest house. There’s no running water or electricity so he helps fetch water from the well. Kobi plans to buy some solar panels for light and so guests can charge their devices. At present they have to go over to his shop for charging.
After a well deserved bucket shower I took a tour round the castle. I’d put it off as I knew it would be somber. It was built and occupied by various European countries. The cannons were built to fight against other Europeans trying to muscle in on the trading of goods.
The door of no return where the slaves left on ships after months of imprisonment. President Obama visited and they hung a new sign on the door leading into the castle “door of return.”
This is a view of the castle, underneath is where people were held captive.
I’ve learnt a lot about slavery having worked in a camp for underprivileged children in New York for three summers. They had a program teaching about how slaves made their journey north for freedom, traveling in lorries filled with cargo like fish or occupied coffins. We roll played as slaves making this journey then made a drawing which was hung up like bunting or prayer flags.
For my last evening I got to enjoy agoshie and banku again and a bonfire on the beach. Kobi’s dog One-Love was very sweet cuddling with me by the fire.
On Friday we said goodbye to everyone and Christian and I took three lift lift’s to right outside Big Milly’s. Christian has hitched before but not in Ghana. Kobi had never heard of such a thing and thought we’d got a lift because we were tourists. One guy that picked us up also stopped for a local guy so its nice to know that it’s not the colour of our skin that stopped the cars or the fact that the first time we were just girls.
It had been a nice brake from communal living. Some of the Vikings had been sad they were too lazy to come back to Cape Coast. On Saturday morning we headed east, camping near Hohoe. When five o’clock rolled round we spotted a football pitch and an unfinished building site.
Ryan walked around trying to find someone to ask permission but there was no one. We set up camp and played volleyball on the grass pitch while the sunset cast beautiful colours in the sky. Two teenagers came and joined in, Ebenezer and Bright, they were really good.
We had a meeting that night straightening out a few things that weren’t working in the group. Some people were slacking a bit so we were reminded to pull our socks up. The guy I’d had a problem with previously (chicken stock incident) decided he wanted all the vegetarians (a third of the group) to be more involved at buying and cooking meat. So far we had been eating a lot of vegan and vegetarian food simply because the quality and availability of meat was scarce.
In the beginning of the trip it was suggested meat eaters should get their fill of meat at lunch time but this in places was also hard. The organiser and others said that the majority of communal meals would be vegetarian.
I chose not to say anything as it’s not a dictatorship where I will be told to do something like cook meat when I’m actively choosing not to be involved in the meat industry. It wasn’t voted on and I’ve always welcomed him to buy and cook meat when we’ve been in a group together. It’s not really fair to place the lack of meat on me. Perhaps he just needs some cooking lessons from the other meat eaters. A good suggestion of cooking meat once out of three in our rotation came.
In the morning a lady called Cecilia came over to meet us. It turns out this place is hers and she’s in the process of building a community center. Every year she hosts a summer camp in August for children. Her aim is to teach against teenage pregnancy and drug abuse. She’d had a career in banking and everyone thought she must of been mad to come back to her little village to start this project. She’s already made a lot of progress.
We set up camp exactly where the kids do. It’s called the Nneka Youth Foundation if you’d like to visit the webpage click here. If I’ve time and money at the end of the trip I’d love to spend a few weeks helping out.
On Sunday we visited Wli (pronounced vlee) waterfalls. It was a two hour hike to the upper waterfall and cost 40 cedis (£7.15, €9.23). It would have been cheaper to only visit the lower falls but according to Christian, who had been before, it’s more crowded and the upper falls are more beautiful. We needed a guide and lots of brakes as the way was winding and steep. The falls were absolutely gorgeous when we finally arrived. Well worth the huffing and puffing to get there!
The area has many pretty flowers and butterflies.
I even got a good shot of a dragonfly.
I swam and meditated on a rock for a bit before taking a group photo. Our guide was eager for us to leave. One of our group had already upset him by going off on his own.
After climbing back down we visited the lower falls which had a double rainbow reflecting in the water. It was breathtaking. I was in the water approaching the fall when I saw it. By the time I’d gone back for my camera the sun had set a little more so I could only get this picture.
I really enjoyed the hike. There was so much to see including lots of messages carved in random trees.
We stayed at the bottom of the mountain with a gorgeous mango tree in the center of a grassy garden. I did some yoga to loosen up and had a shower before cooking agoshie (melon seeds) with contembre (spinach) and banku (maize) with Christian and Gudbjorg. It was delicious!
Week 15 and the last night in Ghana was pretty amazing. I’m really grateful to Christian and Kobi for sharing their favourite places with me. Seeing in colour while meditating, learning some new vegan dishes, seeing the beauty of Ghana has all been the best. And to top it off with a double rainbow circle at some beautiful waterfalls filled with colour and butterflies I’m content to say the least.
betsybluetoes 