Burkina Faso- Burkinabes the friendliest people on Earth? Week 12

With a clear head and an empty stomach we left Bobo on the 21st March. Frazer had been complaining that I hadn’t sat up front yet so for most of the days drive I had the privilege of sitting in the front cab. The first half of the day with Frazer.  

Frazie

 
I was impressed at the amount of bicycles I saw, especially when a large group of women all went flying by. We’ve also been seeing lots of traditional round houses which look super cool to me. 

View from the front cab

 
The second half of the day I sat with Ryan relaying travel stories and dreams of future expeditions. There are so many mangoes for sale right now I’m in heavan. When five o’clock came we started to look for a road to get into the bush. The main road is raised somewhat so when we spot a dirt path going off we take it and find a lovely place surrounded with trees. 

‘God is lonely’

 
Lukas and I walk back into the village we passed through called Ouazadougou. As night was fast approaching I marked the entrance to our camp with a cross and dropped a metal star I found in the middle, taking note of the road bollards and a few distinguishing trees. 

We were welcomed into conversation on our arrival. Lukas has a good grasp of the French language whereas I still struggle with the different accents. We watched the boys play football, some going barefoot, and took some photos. Some of the boys wanted their photo taken with us and a few wanted Lukas’s contact details. I don’t have a mobile so I only got given one phone number.

As the moon rose and my tummy grumbled we navigated our way back to camp successfully relocating my star and cross.

The others had been whittling themselves 12 pins and a throwing stick for the game we learnt in Bamako- Molkkü. Unfortunately the piece of wood they chose wasn’t heavy enough and the game wasn’t quite as much fun.

I’m not sure what happened to us on the 22nd but we all ended up swapping clothes for the morning. It was hysterical as it wasn’t only the clothes we swapped but personalities too.  

Gudbjorg, Tom H, Maria, Tom V, Martina, Jussi, Gudbjorg, Elizabeth, Shani, Lukas, Travis, Bjorn, Christian

 
We called a pee break so Frazer and Ryan could join in but they declined. 

Jussi, Tom V, Tom H, Bjorn, Christian and Elizabeth with a she wee?

 
Apart from police check points Jussi said he was feeling far too comfortable in my clothes and we should therefore change back. We reached the capital Ouagadougou relatively early so headed into town in search of cheap passport photos for our upcoming visas. Along the way we found some delicious juices. First I had an orange frozen drink, then bissap (hibiscus), and then cashew juice! 

Shani, Elizabeth (me), Gudbjorg and Martina

 
We happened across a pizza restaurant I’d read about in our guidebook and I treated myself to a belated birthday pizza. In the evening we enjoyed a few beers in the shack next to our hotel de la liberte. 

Near the hotel is a small market place with many women selling fruit and vegetables. In the centre a few benches create a little restaurant. Here I tried some strange food, basically some white stuff and some green stuff. Plus some locally brewed beer which comes with or without alcohol.  

 
Wednesday afternoon I walked round town with Jussi taking photos of shops with friends names, old trucks and interesting architecture.

On Thursday 24th the Vikings hired scooters and a taxi and went off to a village which lives alongside some crocodiles. There’s something I find really creepy about crocodiles so I decided to stay behind and go visit Nimba Art shop to spend some birthday money instead. I got an opal necklace and a fold away orange shopper bag with blue birds (you can see it bottom left in the photo above). Thanks mum and dad 🙂

I enjoy scooters but our Vikings are a crazy bunch. They successfully went to the croc village and back but then as they had a few more hours they ventured out again. Ten minutes later they were back and Gudbjorg had massive scrapes and bruises. She’d run into a fruit stand and had to pay a fine of 50,000 francs (£59, €76) between the bike guy and the fruit stand seller. 

 
In the evening there was a movie viewing of “Road to Ouaga” a story of two men trying to make their millions and the downfalls they face. I enjoyed it very much. 

 
Friday was spent enjoying gin and tonics with Frazer again. We were waiting for our Ghanaian visas, and since Frazer was politely asked to leave Ghana five years ago when his political party lost an election, he was quite worried about whether we would get them. Hence his level of gin intake and his departure to bed at 4pm. 

Jussi, Frazie, Martina, Ryan, Gudbjorg and Shani

 
The rest of us went over to another Institut Français for Ouagadougou’s rock festival. It was pretty decent, slow to start but the line up got better as the night went on. The last band to play ‘Joke’ was a real highlight. Everyone was up dancing, jumping around and waving there hands in the air. I wish I’d gotten their CD it was so good. 

 
Saturday Jussi treated me to another pizza at the same restaurant due to him loosing the bet we had. And then the boys went off to watch a football game and I watched a movie Maze Runner.

Sunday I had the fabulous idea to swap our communal dinner for lunch instead. Then we could all mosey over to the Ouagadougou’s reggae festival in the afternoon as it is a bit of a trek out of town and started at 8pm. And it was the best meal we’ve had yet – chips and peanut sauce sleeping camel style! Frazer treated us all to gin and tonics again and was in bed by 3pm.  

 
So we set out and did a pub crawl on the way. We only found two places to stop at that was inviting. The first was next to the pizza place, a large garden with art and crafts, the second a road side locals bar. 

Three things happened that night. The first while walking along I stepped over a sewer about a foot wide thinking “that would be easy to fall into.” Then I saw a lady sitting by a door and we exchanged “Bon nuit (good night).” Then I fell into the matching sewer, on the other side of the gate, hand planting the ground. I quickly got back up, chuckling, as my fellow Vikings asked if I was alright. I only got a scrape on my heel and shin.

The second thing to happen while also walking along was a scooter flying by attempting to grab my bag off my shoulder. Luckily for me I caught a firm grip on it and my Vikings again laughed as all I could think to do was stick two fingers up at them. Then in my girlie voice swear f you. 

Now I was beginning to think what the third thing to happen will be but thankfully it was a compliment. Once we’d queued for ages to get into the festival and then went back out to get a beer a cute guy tried to chat me up. I left to go sit with my friends and he brought his phone number over to me. I wasn’t interested but it’s always nice to feel wanted. 

The festival itself was much bigger than the rock one the night before which felt aimed at foreigners. Tonight it was more about the locals and the vibe was amazing. Lots of people dancing and singing along. We found out after that the last singer was an original member of Bob Marley’s wailers. How cool is that?!

On our way home we took a taxi and after a while of not being lucky one hunk of a car pulled up already with one lady inside. He asked us where we were going and we negotiated a price. We were a bit confused, however, as he was adamant that all seven of us would fit inside the five seater. 

Eventually I threw my hands up, said “OK” and off we went. Six in the back, three in the front. Every bump and turn the car made awful grinding noises and we were most pleased when we got to our street. We enjoyed the short stroll back up to the hotel all in one piece. Sometimes you just gotta let go and see what happens!

Bamako baby and beyond to Burkina Faso week 10 and 11

We spent a long day driving on the 7th of March. The road between the border of Senegal and the capital of Mali, Bamako is pretty bad. Lots of missing pieces and much braking by our driver. The truck is a beast but the suspension is bouncy so with any bump a number of us are hovering on our seats. We find lots of fried food in a small town where we stop to get petrol. Fried plantain (looks like a banana but you can’t eat it raw), chips and onion rings.

After wild camping for the night near Diema we arrive in Bamako at the sleeping camel. Everyone’s excitement is tangible.  

Tom H, Jussi, Lukas, Shani and Gudbjorg filling in nonsense on the hotel forms

 
Showering, cold beer and civilisation after five nights camping in the bush is heaven. In the bar a cool mist is sprayed every few minutes. Thin pipes run around the ceiling so the cool mist descends on the patrons. 

Christian and Jussi

 

Free mosquito repellent lines the counter, there’s a stack of games and two widescreen TVs. Lizards, rabbits and birds scuttle, hop and perch around the place. We’re lucky enough to arrive during happy hour. I settle down with a cocktail and check my email. I got the sad news my mum’s cousin Dinah passed away on the 6th. She’d been diagnosed with bowel cancer about a year and a half ago. When I’d left for this trip I didn’t think she wouldn’t be there to hear my tales and look at my photos when I got back.

I don’t have a big family and Dinah was more like an Aunt. When she visited she’d always bring something from the Tunnocks factory (Scottish cake and chocolate biscuit company) she lived close by to. 

She was an inspiration having traveled a lot herself and she taught me to go for it. Life is short, do it when you’ve got the chance.

So the next days were spent in thought about family and the fragility of life. Dinah’s side of the family mostly live in England and before I left for this trip I attended her youngest nephew David’s wedding. I haven’t seen most of them since the middle son Steven’s wedding when I was about twelve so it was really nice to reconnect. David has a similar taste in music to me playing a lot of 90’s music, indie and ska. I enjoyed dancing with my mum and chatting to Steven’s family at our table. 

I was sad I wouldn’t be there for the funeral. My passport was needed as we got our Burkina Faso visas on the 9th and then on the 11th they went in for five days to get our Nigerian visas. If I was to leave I would need to wait, then find my way to Burkina Faso where there’re no direct flights from the UK. I know my mum missed me but she assured me it was too expensive and difficult logistically to come back for. 

The highlights of Bamako included drinking gin and tonics with Frazer, walking around town buying food and drink like hibiscus and ginger juice and rice and peanut sauce, and Friday night after winning scrabble going dancing. Loved it!

The end of the night is a bit hazy as people left but Jussi and I continued to other clubs. The first we played a terrible game of pool. The second we drank extortionate rum and cokes and smoked peppermint shisha. I’m not sure what time we got home at but Saturday’s live music was enjoyed from a horizontal position on the sofa under the fan.

We went on a river cruise on Saturday too. I was a bit queasy to fully enjoy. Plus there was human poo in the water but that didn’t stop most of the Vikings going for a swim!  

  
The sleeping camel is a base for UN officers so there were lots of men in uniforms walking around. One Dutch man was called Battenberg which made me chuckle as we have a cake of the same name at home. Another dutch man took a shine to Martina and on Sunday 13th March he invited us to a respectable hotel to use their swimming pool. I’m surprised they let the boisterous boys stay.  

Tom V, Lukas, Gudbjorg, Shani and Travis

 
Back at the sleeping camel a Finnish game called Molkkü is played every Sunday afternoon. Travis and I were invited to join and I won a free shot of gin. If you hit all of the pins down in one go or if you call the top three high numbers and get it the bar will give you a free shot. I got all the pins down on the first shot. It’s a bit like bowling but you throw a stick at the twelve pins and where they fall you stand them back up. First to fifty points wins. 

We played again later in the week with the rest of the Vikings and loved it so much we plan to make our own set. 

Monday I went to the park and up to a view point over the stadium with Lukas, Shani, and Gudbjorg. Lots of runners and fitness people frequent the park as there is a gym in the middle and the run up the hill is good training. We sat at the top watching them, while we laughed and ate mangoes.  

Mango seller Bamako

 
Wednesday 16th was Travis’s birthday. He was a very lucky boy getting free drinks at the bar all day. I gave him a small swimming pool which a few of us tried out in the evening. His night ended when he vomited on a nightclubs bar.

We got our passports back and bid farewell to the hospitality of the sleeping camel on Thursday 17th. The manager Phil gave us 24 cold beers to send us on our way. Of course with the heat the beers are best drunk cold. What with it being Saint Patrick’s day we got into a happy vibe on the truck painting green braveheart style lines on our faces and singing songs.  

Jussi, Travis, Shani, Martina, Christian, Lukas, Bjorn, Ryan, Maria, Tom H, Gudbjorg, Frazer, Jonaton, Me and Tom V in the truck

 
We discovered the most delicious drink in the world pastis and hibiscus juice. It tastes like a sweet (candy) I used to eat as a child. By lunch time our alcohol was finished so Bjorn and I decided buying 50% mint alcohol would be a great idea.

We finally parked and set up our wild campsite at 5pm, I was on cooking duty. Paddy day potatoes needed peeling but I was having trouble holding them. They kept slipping out of my hand and landing in the dirt. It was most amusing to those around me. So the babies that were laughing while setting up their tent got some thrown at them. I ended up on the floor in the dirt before going to bed early. Bjorn used our breakfast papayas as a pillow before loosing his camouflage tent. Best paddy’s day ever!

On the 18th we crossed over into Burkina Faso. Buying food from the markets I found the people to be most friendly, laughing a lot and not minding if my French isn’t up to scratch. We wild camped one night before reaching Bobo-Dioulasso where I hit tummy troubles. 

On the 19th we were very lucky to be able to go along to a Fete des Masques. This is a traditional celebration when somebody important dies. It doesn’t happen too often and for 3000 francs (£3.60, €4.50) foreigners are welcome to come and watch. A number of men and children dress up in masks and grass outfits. They start by jumping around and visiting houses. You’re not allowed to touch or talk to them unless they talk to you.   
Then in a clearing, one by one, they dance to music of the lute and small drums beaten by a cane. They are looking for and warding off spirits that could prevent the deceased person reaching paradise.  

  It got really hot and dusty watching them I can’t imagine how the dancers felt. 

Some people were doing acrobats between performers. Some of the performers especially the children were escorted away after their stint or helped to sit back down. 

On our way home we stopped by the Institut Français for some live music and dance performances. It was pretty cool but I had to have an early night due to my tummy. 

 
20th March arrived and time to celebrate my birthday. I started with a morning swim followed by some birthday beers bought by Bjorn, Travis and Frazer. By midday I was feeling pretty rubbish though so took myself off to a pharmacy. What with it being Sunday it wasn’t until the fourth pharmacy that I found one open. There were the most beautiful clouds in the sky with rays of sunshine illuminating the brilliant white.

People call out ‘white person’ a lot here, sometimes I say hi, sometimes not. A few people ask how are you. One guy asked before I got to the last pharmacy and I decided to tell the truth. He was so concerned once I’d finished at the pharmacy and popped my pill he had gotten his scooter and wanted to give me a lift home. 

I couldn’t remember the name of the hotel we were camping at so I just directed him the way I’d come. Until I saw a hotel I’d heard had good wifi so I asked to stop there so I could speak to my mum and check my messages. A white lady out front told us the Internet was down but suggested some other places. Ben happily drove me to three other places before giving up. The kindness of strangers strikes again. I remembered the name of our place Villa Bobo and went for a lie down before vomiting in the toilet.

The evening was spent on the couch where Shani and Gudbjorg gave me a vegan chocolate cake and a colourful teapot so I can enjoy teapot showers in the bush. Jussi gave me a batique wall hanging he and Martina, Maria and Tom H bought. It has Africa and lots of musical instruments on it. Everyone signed my card in their own language which made it very difficult to read!  

 
Vomiting and tummy problems aside my Vikings made the day memorable!

From Mauritania into Senegal no sleep till Bamako week 9

Leap day February 29th we were due to leave Nouakchott at midday. This meant we had to leave our paradise beach spot rather early. I barely got two hours sleep but thought I’d be able to sleep on the truck so it’d be ok. 

When we got back to the Auberge Sahara the five guys who went off to take a free ride on an iron ore train weren’t back yet. It is the longest train in the world if you’re into that kind of thing. 

Frazer has always warned us: If you’re not on the truck when we tell you we’re going, then we’re going without you. With the clock ticking since the accident we’ve been trying to get back on schedule. After a few phone calls the boys are told they will be able to follow us in a taxi to the security checkpoint we will be sleeping at. It’s very close to the border as the plan is to camp there and go early. With border crossings you can never tell how long they will take so it’s best to arrive early.

Senegal wasn’t in our original plan but it is a welcome addition. Unfortunately an IS attack has been reported around 260km away from our route through the northwest of Mauritania headed into Mali. We therefore change our plan and head straight down south to Senegal and will go west from there into Mali instead.

Our last night in Mauritania Lukas and I went for a walk into the village. He could tell I’d been a bit down lately so it was nice to talk. There wasn’t anything much to see in the village apart from the mosque. When we were passing it by two teenagers beckoned to Lukas to come in. I told him to go and have a look, I would hold his bag. I should have warned him just to look but Lukas being Lukas decided he would give praying a go. Obviously he didn’t do it correctly and the village elders stared him down until Lukas made a swift exit. The whole praying community followed him out to question us. 

Twenty or thirty men and boys surrounded us asking where we were going, staying and why we were here. It felt half threatening half joking as the younger boys sniggered and giggled. We told them our route and that we were camping next to the police checkpoint. The president of the village guessed this and grumbled that this is not a place to walk. He started to make a call to the police checkpoint and after nervously laughing some, Lukas and I made another swift exit.

On our return I discovered Jussi drinking a beer in the truck. That meant I won the bet and he said he would buy me dinner in a fancy restaurant. But, he told me, can we do it in Burkina Faso because it’s cheaper there? 

 

We both had two nights of drinking since our bet on 18th January. Me on the 31st because of the stress of the accident and then we both had some wine on 17th February at Camping Nil. Jussi got a free drinking ticket some where in the desert after that. This meant I’d had two weeks then just over two weeks then just under two weeks of being sober. Jussi on the other hand got a full month in there. 

As we where leaving Mauritania, a dry country, us Vikings decided we would drink all the alcohol on the truck. We’d stocked up in Spain and had beers, sangria and red wine. Going into Senegal there would be plenty places to restock. So that’s what we did, waiting for the five wanderers. 

We had been slightly worried about them as we had their passports. At around five o’clock the police came over to check said passports after receiving a phone call from another checkpoint a few kilometres away. We weren’t sure why it was taking so long. They eventually rocked up, covered in iron ore soot, at gone 11pm. They helped us finish the booze as they were tired, dirty and incase you didn’t know, there are no showers in the wild.

Morning breakfast before hitting the border

 
On the first of my favourite months (it’s my birthday in March) we made it into Senegal. Not forgetting Tom H’s lost bet forfeit of running a naked kilometre through the desert beforehand. We went through a nature reserve and alongside warthogs, cows and birds Tom ran for it. He had to hide in a bush when another car overtook us!

The border crossing was nice and easy. Considering we all felt a bit nauseous this was a blessing. Not only did it not look like we’d changed countries, we didn’t even need to leave the truck. Our passports went in for an exit stamp, then an entrance stamp and a free visa. One policeman came on board to look at our passports and that was it.

We headed straight for Saint Louis to spend two nights in the capital. The first night I watched everyone get drunk. I had a bad feeling about an elderly relative of mine and I didn’t want to drink. On the second day Jussi and I went and took a bus much like this one:

We went round the town stumbling across an amazing sweet and savoury pancake place. I couldn’t say no as the day before I hadn’t been able to find any meat free food let alone vegan.

Streets of Saint Louis

Recycled art paintings to inspire us:  

That night I thoroughly joined in the drinking with gin and tonics which are supposed to help prevent malaria. Saint Louis is known for its live music scene so we went out to a bar and eventually found some. The place was small with a few tables across two rooms. It felt smokey and dimly lit.

Four guys came slowly marching in, took four chairs in a row and started playing and singing their hearts out. One of them was so into his melody both feet were in the air, head back and fingers plucking his traditional Kora guitar. It was quiet something. His voice will stay with me for years to come.

Lukas, Travis, Jussi and I were the last four standing so we decided to see if we could go clubbing. We found a little place even more dimly lit with a small square dance floor. We managed to make use of the space freely popping some moves. Eventually some locals got up to dance and apparently the done thing is to watch yourselves in a floor length mirror I had been avoiding eye contact with previously. 

At the end of the night after two taxis broke down on us we had to walk the few kilometres home. I hope this is not going to be a theme!

Easy walk along the water all the way

 
With the worst hangover we headed out onto the road east with three colourful nights wild camping before reaching Mali. Our first night a group of women and girls came with a radio and stood about watching us. Their French wasn’t too good so we chatted a little and they enjoyed seeing the photos I took of them.  

 I love their colourful fabrics and pretty cornrolls (braids). They seemed to enjoy watching our strange proceedings of setting up the tables and chairs and a few people preparing dinner. I think they thought I was most weird when the language barrier prevented us from fully understanding each other. 

I asked if they had email so I could send them their photos but they just wrote down their names in my notebook. Aminata, Aissata, Ibrahima, Arminata and Falimata.

 
A couple of them had two short lines scarred on each side of their face on the outer side of their eyes which I believe is a sign of marriage. I also noticed green tattoos extending their bottom lip halfway down their chins which I still don’t know why some women have it and others not. 

 The  terrain is changing everyday. This area is particurally spikey and we have to pick the spikes out. I don’t know how many jags we all got!

Christian picking spikes out of his flip flops

 
The next day I climbed a tree to see some Lizards after going on a short walk bird watching. Two men passed by and thought we must of looked really hot. They offered a few glasses of goats milk with big chunks of ice in it. I didn’t partake but thought the gesture sweet. 

 Our third night a few people climbed the Baobab tree we camped next to. No visitors except a baby scorpion sighting while Maria was peeing and a praying manta. 

Baobab trees are leafless, looking like they’ve been turned upside down, according to folklore because they were too vain

 

On 6th March  we had another really easy border crossing into Mali. Lots of huge trucks lined the roads. Some men were snoozing under their trucks, others eating or drinking, some washing. I wonder how long their border crossing takes. We didn’t need to leave the truck again and we wondered whether we were in Mali or not.  Thankfully we purchased our visas in Mauritania for 6500UM (£14.60, €18.60)

Another night of wild camping not far from a river. A few of us enjoyed a wee dip (small bathe) while the locals herded round us laughing at our strange ways. They told Lukas there are crocodiles in the river and that they use it as a toilet, to wash their clothes and animals.    
 
The only girl to follow us back to camp chatted with me. Her name is How and she’s got a great attitude.

Some of our boys climbed the Baobab tree and Tom H started a war with them, throwing sticks and whatnot up at them.   

Tom H looking for something to throw at Travis

 
He got the local boys involved and one pulled out his slingshot. 
  

 
They were happy kids, enjoying having their photos taken. It was quite an effort to get them all to leave at the end of the night. Frazer eventually switched our truck light off which did the trick. There will be another two days of driving before we reach the capital Bamako so we’re not up too late.  This meant we could enjoy a gorgeous sunrise while eating breakfast.

     

It’s been heating up and napping is getting more frequent. As is purchasing little sachets of water. I don’t like the excess plastic consumption but when your water bottle contents starts to boil needs must. We’ve gotten used to people coming up to the truck selling them alongside nuts, fruit, cakes and phone credit.

Sometimes it’s hard to find vegetarian options at lunchtime so we keep a supply of hot water in a flask and some of us have couscous and condiments stashed in our lockers. Occasionally the leftovers from the night before stretch to lunch but we snack so much when we’re driving they’re usually gone by lunchtime. 

We’ve entered mosquito and annoying bug territory and start on our antimalarial medication. Two people won’t take any (one has Malerone for treatment), five of us are on Larium, four on Malerone and four on doxycycline. My Larium group rename Friday as Larium Friday to help us to remember and Jonatan kindly sells me some pills until we reach a pharmacy that stocks it. 

Apparently strange dreams are reported after you’ve taken a few doses so I’ll let you know how it goes in a few weeks. I don’t tend to like pharmaceuticals preferring a natural lifestyle but one of the doctors at my practice has seen two people die from it and with all the internet research and the fact mosquitos tend to love my sweet blood I’d rather be safe than sorry. 

Sometimes you’ve just got to do it. After all this is Africa where anything can and will happen!

The Next Adventure – Over-landing from Iceland to South Africa

Earlier this year an amazing adventure presented itself to me – an email landed in my over flowing inbox. How easy it would have been for me to miss it. Within was an invitation to join a private expedition from 66 degrees North in Reykjavik, Iceland, to 33 degrees south in Cape Town, South Africa – the most northerly capital city to one of the most southerly. The journey will take six months or there about, and cross 20 countries, give or take – depending on visa or border issues.

The journey officially begins on 2^nd January in Iceland. Our transportation is a converted ex-army Bedford 4×4 truck who will be with us from start to finish. In Iceland we will visit Vik I Mydral, Hofn and Esturstadi. On the 6^th January we set sail for 19 hours to the Faroe Islands, stopping for 6 hours, and then a further 36 hours to reach Denmark. Unfortunately for my friends in the next countries we will be flying through Germany, France, and Spain (as it is the middle of winter) camping in Malaga for a few days to buy supplies and make a trip to see Gibraltar.

Then we set sail for Morocco and heading south through western Africa visiting Mauritania, Mali, Burkina Faso, and Ghana where we will rest on the beaches. Once recuperated we will go east through Togo, Benin, to Nigeria where we only stay in walled compounds. Last time they stayed in some interesting places including camping in the gardens of 5 star hotels!

Moving on and heading further south exploring central Africa including Cameroon, Gabon, Congo, Dominican Republic of Congo, Angola, Namibia, and finally arriving in South Africa if all goes to plan.

Surprisingly I have managed to memorise all 15 African countries! I used to play a game (click here) to learn all the 54 countries, dreaming of visiting them all. If you would like a more detailed itinerary for these countries please visit vikingsacrossafrica.com/route or follow my blog for updates. We hope to get connected at least once every two weeks if not more.

I had never thought about joining a tour group before, as the majority of my travels have been solo. This time, however, I figured there’s safety going with experienced people, there’s the shared cost of living and the fact that it’s such a long trip, the people joining me will be open minded and easy going like me.

It took me a couple of months to mull it over and some forecasting to see if my office job would provide me with enough income. I could have saved myself the energy pondering whether to go, as this trip has my name all over it. Friends I talked to about it must have thought “why is she even questioning it? I know she’s going to go!” I’ve always wanted to see Africa – the people, the wildlife, the nature, the cuisine, the dancing, the colourful textiles and music.

I will be joining 13 other people plus three crew members’ age ranging 20’s to 40’s from many different nationalities and backgrounds. It’s a get out and push kind of tour and apparently we are all allowed to drive the truck, at least for a kilometre, when we get to Mauritania – as long as there are no camels about! There’s a built in kitchen, sound system, and plenty of tents to house us all. Our tour leader is a fellow Scot who has spent over 30 years in Africa working in humanitarian aid and expeditions like this one.

Here’s an example of what my luggage includes:

• Sleeping bag and artificial silk liner, travel pillow
• Pen knife (handed down to me from my Dad) which includes a mini saw (I’m a bit too excited about this feature!)
• Travel washing line which is two ropes wrapped around each other so it doesn’t need pegs, with hooks and suckers
• Travel laundry soap flakes in a tiny box where 2-3 flakes will do one wash (!)
• Clothes, walking boots, socks, flip flops
• Swimming costume, travel towel, sunscreen
• Eco-friendly soap so I can wash in rivers and waterfalls and try not to harm nature
• Mosquito net, repellent, scarf for covering up against the weather/mosquitoes/idiot men folk
• Nail clippers, tweezers, toothbrush and paste
• Salt rock deodorant, hairbrush, hairbands
• Sunglasses, camera, ipad loaded with music, books and recipes
• Water bottle with a uv water purifier (my friend Jeannie had one and they really help reduce the amount of plastic consumed buying disposable water bottles)
• Notebook and pens

And once I’ve put all this stuff in my backpack and seen how much it weighs, I will invariably chuck some of it out and aim to keep the pack under 15 kilos! I’ve travelled with fewer kilos before but seeing as we are on a truck the whole way and I don’t plan to be walking for miles with it, I can afford to take some luxuries.

My medical practise advised me to get yellow fever vaccine and a booster for Hepatitis A & Typhoid. I’ve already been immunised against Hepatitis B, Rabies, Meningitis, Tetanus, Polio, and Diphtheria and our trip organiser recommends Larium for Malaria protection, although my Doctor recommends Malerone.

My French is getting brushed up on Duolingo, an app which lets you practise important phrases such as “I am a dolphin” and “The shark is eating a turtle.” I can’t wait to talk a bit of Arabic and see how different Egyptian Bedouin Arabic is to other strains.

The trip starts on 2^nd January but like a lot of my fellow passengers we will be meeting in Iceland on New Year’s Eve. A time to see in the new year with the people I will be spending the next six months with. Apparently there is a firework display at the Bells and as I’m an hour behind the UK I might just have to celebrate twice!

Friends have already started giving me tips of things to see and I welcome any more. I’ve caught up on all of David Attenborough’s wildlife documentaries on the BBC (except for the fighting one on at the moment). The countdown is on with just over three weeks till departure. Excitement is an understatement!