Tag Archives: crocodiles

Gateway to Ghana, the Garden of Eden. Week 13

The last two days in Burkina Faso were spent walking round town, visiting the cathedral, and the big market, and then spending the day with Martina the owner of the little local restaurant who also runs a recycling plant for plastics. The cathedral wasn’t as peaceful as I’d of hoped. I noticed a young couple at the back door talking quietly and looking forlorn. A man hissed at us when we (Shani, Gudbjorg and I) exchanged a few words. I didn’t touch the holy water just in case. I’ll never forget reaching up to touch the burning bush in Saint Catherine’s in Sinai, Egypt, saying “humduallah” and it pricking me! 

 The market was extremely busy. People trying to get our attention to come and visit their shop got tiring immediately. But the fabrics were bright and colourful and I couldn’t resist to buy one 3 meter strip. 

Lukas, Shani and I got the privilege of seeing how some of Ouagadougou’s plastic is collected, shredded, cleaned and reformed into bags. It was pretty cool to see the whole process. Apparently the government give a small amount of money towards the project but the main contributors are private businesses.   

  Also at the site Martina has a large vegetable garden. The crops being used for her restaurant no doubt. She drove us by scooter to visit the plant with her young son strapped to her back the whole time. Shani and Lukas borrowed her daughters scooter. 

Next she drove us to her brewery where we got to see the process of making the local beer. It’s boiled then filtered, stored in sunken pots, boiled again then left to ferment.  

  
We bought a bottle of alcoholic and alcohol free and Martina gave us some gifts before we had to say goodbye to Ouagadougou.  

 Travis and Bjorn had gone off again in search of another masked festival outside of Bobo. Because our passports had been in the embassy the boys took photocopies. Bjorn, however, has two passports and decided he’d try using his second one. But without a visa the police chucked them both in jail for four days before they were able to retrieve there passports, show their visas and free themselves. They were then off to Cote d’Ivory and would meet us in Ghana. 

We spent one night wild camping before heading to the border on the 30th March. Right by the side of the road we were treated to an elephant sighting. He was so cute just hanging out eating some leaves. As soon as we saw him we all shouted “elephant” and stared at him. He took one look at us and ran off. We resolve to be a bit quieter next time we see some wildlife! 

 Entering Ghana was swift and hassle free. The first thing I noticed is how much God is worshipped here. Half the shops, if not more, have a God or Jesus theme in the title. “God’s time is best,” “Gracious God,” “The blood of Jesus” etc. I like the names of the nightclubs too like “no sweat, no joy.” 

We set up camp in a clearing next to a little path where lots of bicycles go by. Slowly slowly people came over to check us out. They all shook each of our hands and some bowed down. I thought that was really nice as I can be shy to go up to people. Them being so friendly might beat the Burkinabes at the friendliest nation contest.  

 One old guy takes a shine to us and offers us a drink of his local beer. Lukas in return shares our beer we got from Martina. After dinner I gave my speech on Ghana. Everyone was assigned a country to read up on. I got some good feedback once I’d finished. Maybe I’ll do a blog post with the information I got although some of the statistics I felt were a bit biased.

In the morning Christian also left us as he has spent a year in Ghana before volunteering. He was headed straight to cape coast to visit friends. We would take a bit longer in our Beast with top speeds of 57km/h. We pushed on and visited Tamale for an early lunch break. I bought avocado, papaya, dried coconut flakes, and some donuts all for only the equivalent of one British pound (€1.28, $1.45)! 

 I like how direct and colourful the Ghanaians are with the English language. When I asked if there was a toilet at a petrol station I was told no. Could I kindly leave the shop, pause, and ask the attendant outside. Then I was asked “do you need to urinate?” As there was actually no water to use the toilet but there was a urinal I could use out back. 

We camped close to Mole (pronounced mo-leh) National Park so we could go on Safari the following morning. After some discussions and paying 40 cedi (£8, €10) entrance fee we decided to go on a walking safari. We would cover less ground but decided we would see more without the noisy truck. Sure enough we were treated to seeing 17 elephants grazing. It was a privilege and so peaceful to see them in a wild setting albeit a national park.  

   
 
We also got to see plenty springbuck, vultures, and warthogs.  

    
 We had to go to the staff compound to see lots of baboons. 

   
And we saw the head of a crocodile pop out on the lake while we were hanging out at the hotel’s swimming pool’s viewpoint.  

   
While at the pool a baboon tried to steal stuff from two of the other Europeans tables which was quite funny. However, I shouldn’t have laughed, one of the trucks windows was left open and a baboon had a party in there. At first we thought it was an April fools day joke but there was a footprint and a poo left for us as thanks. They enjoyed the leftovers anyway.  

   
That evening we got another beautiful display of nature when a giant storm rolled right by us. Three men came over to say hello so I quizzed them whether they thought the storm would hit us or not. They thought originally three hours and it would rain here.  

 It was their land we were camping on where they grow cassava, maize, yam and corn. I didn’t quite catch their names, I should have asked them to write them down. One started with Abu. They were from the Genga tribe mainly, in a large village of fifty people! I told him that wasn’t very large at all and they laughed. 

The storm didn’t end up hitting us at all but we were treated to lots of lightening. We felt a few rain spots and a lot of wind, rather lucky actually. Lukas and I enjoyed playing with our cameras trying to capture the lightening. I only got a couple of good shots of the lightening itself, but I did catch some amazing colours in the sky. 

   
The next day we spent driving all day heading south for the beach! I enjoyed some rice and sauce with Jonatan and Jussi in a little village. With my head out the windows I spotted the sign for Kintampa waterfall so called out to Ryan to see if we could stop. We paid five cedis to enter and spent an hour refreshing ourselves under the cool falls. 

   
We camped in another farm which was a logging area. Enjoying a beautiful sunset among the trees. Lots of trucks with giant logs wider than the trucks went by with no lights on after sunset.  

   
On the 3rd April we reached Kumasi for lunch and food shopping. It’s the largest city in Ghana with a lot going on. Except for the fact it was Sunday! Only a small amount of vegetable sellers were out with their stock. One lady we bought some peppers from was very thankful that we had come back to her to buy. She was really happy. 

It was also Gudbjorg’s birthday so we pushed hard to reach Elmina. It was the first day since Europe that we drove in the dark but it was worth it. The Stumble Inn was right on a white sandy beach. We pitched our tents on the soft sand.  

 Gudbjorg, as you can probably tell, is a rather hard name to pronounce. The Icelandic ‘d’ should have a line through the top and be pronounced like a quiet ‘th’. In Denmark her nickname is good-bear. Some of the boys call her good-beer. I found a thermal mug with Angel-bear written on it for a gift. 

Unfortunately that night my teammate was having a bad day. We were on cooking duty and made veg and noodles for dinner. We did one with chicken stock and one with vegetable stock but when we came to serve he decided to tell everyone it’s all vegetarian. I’m not sure if he just hasn’t been getting enough meat at lunch time or he had pms but Frazer told me he’d speak to him if I needed. I didn’t as its a small thing but now chicken stock is a running joke.

It’s not all fun fun fun this traveling malarkey. Living with 14 other people has its challenges. It’s certainly teaching me how not to be bothered by other people’s bad moods. I think I mentioned before patience would be a big lesson and I think I’m getting there. Learning to give love out to everyone regardless of their behaviour is important. Love is the only way to bring peace into your heart. At the end of the day we are only responsible for ourselves.

Burkina Faso- Burkinabes the friendliest people on Earth? Week 12

With a clear head and an empty stomach we left Bobo on the 21st March. Frazer had been complaining that I hadn’t sat up front yet so for most of the days drive I had the privilege of sitting in the front cab. The first half of the day with Frazer.  

Frazie
 
I was impressed at the amount of bicycles I saw, especially when a large group of women all went flying by. We’ve also been seeing lots of traditional round houses which look super cool to me. 

View from the front cab
 
The second half of the day I sat with Ryan relaying travel stories and dreams of future expeditions. There are so many mangoes for sale right now I’m in heavan. When five o’clock came we started to look for a road to get into the bush. The main road is raised somewhat so when we spot a dirt path going off we take it and find a lovely place surrounded with trees. 

‘God is lonely’
 
Lukas and I walk back into the village we passed through called Ouazadougou. As night was fast approaching I marked the entrance to our camp with a cross and dropped a metal star I found in the middle, taking note of the road bollards and a few distinguishing trees. 

We were welcomed into conversation on our arrival. Lukas has a good grasp of the French language whereas I still struggle with the different accents. We watched the boys play football, some going barefoot, and took some photos. Some of the boys wanted their photo taken with us and a few wanted Lukas’s contact details. I don’t have a mobile so I only got given one phone number.

As the moon rose and my tummy grumbled we navigated our way back to camp successfully relocating my star and cross.

The others had been whittling themselves 12 pins and a throwing stick for the game we learnt in Bamako- Molkkü. Unfortunately the piece of wood they chose wasn’t heavy enough and the game wasn’t quite as much fun.

I’m not sure what happened to us on the 22nd but we all ended up swapping clothes for the morning. It was hysterical as it wasn’t only the clothes we swapped but personalities too.  

Gudbjorg, Tom H, Maria, Tom V, Martina, Jussi, Gudbjorg, Elizabeth, Shani, Lukas, Travis, Bjorn, Christian
 
We called a pee break so Frazer and Ryan could join in but they declined. 

Jussi, Tom V, Tom H, Bjorn, Christian and Elizabeth with a she wee?
 
Apart from police check points Jussi said he was feeling far too comfortable in my clothes and we should therefore change back. We reached the capital Ouagadougou relatively early so headed into town in search of cheap passport photos for our upcoming visas. Along the way we found some delicious juices. First I had an orange frozen drink, then bissap (hibiscus), and then cashew juice! 

Shani, Elizabeth (me), Gudbjorg and Martina
 
We happened across a pizza restaurant I’d read about in our guidebook and I treated myself to a belated birthday pizza. In the evening we enjoyed a few beers in the shack next to our hotel de la liberte. 

Near the hotel is a small market place with many women selling fruit and vegetables. In the centre a few benches create a little restaurant. Here I tried some strange food, basically some white stuff and some green stuff. Plus some locally brewed beer which comes with or without alcohol.  

 
Wednesday afternoon I walked round town with Jussi taking photos of shops with friends names, old trucks and interesting architecture.

On Thursday 24th the Vikings hired scooters and a taxi and went off to a village which lives alongside some crocodiles. There’s something I find really creepy about crocodiles so I decided to stay behind and go visit Nimba Art shop to spend some birthday money instead. I got an opal necklace and a fold away orange shopper bag with blue birds (you can see it bottom left in the photo above). Thanks mum and dad 🙂

I enjoy scooters but our Vikings are a crazy bunch. They successfully went to the croc village and back but then as they had a few more hours they ventured out again. Ten minutes later they were back and Gudbjorg had massive scrapes and bruises. She’d run into a fruit stand and had to pay a fine of 50,000 francs (£59, €76) between the bike guy and the fruit stand seller. 

 
In the evening there was a movie viewing of “Road to Ouaga” a story of two men trying to make their millions and the downfalls they face. I enjoyed it very much. 

 
Friday was spent enjoying gin and tonics with Frazer again. We were waiting for our Ghanaian visas, and since Frazer was politely asked to leave Ghana five years ago when his political party lost an election, he was quite worried about whether we would get them. Hence his level of gin intake and his departure to bed at 4pm. 

Jussi, Frazie, Martina, Ryan, Gudbjorg and Shani
 
The rest of us went over to another Institut Français for Ouagadougou’s rock festival. It was pretty decent, slow to start but the line up got better as the night went on. The last band to play ‘Joke’ was a real highlight. Everyone was up dancing, jumping around and waving there hands in the air. I wish I’d gotten their CD it was so good. 

 
Saturday Jussi treated me to another pizza at the same restaurant due to him loosing the bet we had. And then the boys went off to watch a football game and I watched a movie Maze Runner.

Sunday I had the fabulous idea to swap our communal dinner for lunch instead. Then we could all mosey over to the Ouagadougou’s reggae festival in the afternoon as it is a bit of a trek out of town and started at 8pm. And it was the best meal we’ve had yet – chips and peanut sauce sleeping camel style! Frazer treated us all to gin and tonics again and was in bed by 3pm.  

 
So we set out and did a pub crawl on the way. We only found two places to stop at that was inviting. The first was next to the pizza place, a large garden with art and crafts, the second a road side locals bar. 

Three things happened that night. The first while walking along I stepped over a sewer about a foot wide thinking “that would be easy to fall into.” Then I saw a lady sitting by a door and we exchanged “Bon nuit (good night).” Then I fell into the matching sewer, on the other side of the gate, hand planting the ground. I quickly got back up, chuckling, as my fellow Vikings asked if I was alright. I only got a scrape on my heel and shin.

The second thing to happen while also walking along was a scooter flying by attempting to grab my bag off my shoulder. Luckily for me I caught a firm grip on it and my Vikings again laughed as all I could think to do was stick two fingers up at them. Then in my girlie voice swear f you. 

Now I was beginning to think what the third thing to happen will be but thankfully it was a compliment. Once we’d queued for ages to get into the festival and then went back out to get a beer a cute guy tried to chat me up. I left to go sit with my friends and he brought his phone number over to me. I wasn’t interested but it’s always nice to feel wanted. 

The festival itself was much bigger than the rock one the night before which felt aimed at foreigners. Tonight it was more about the locals and the vibe was amazing. Lots of people dancing and singing along. We found out after that the last singer was an original member of Bob Marley’s wailers. How cool is that?!

On our way home we took a taxi and after a while of not being lucky one hunk of a car pulled up already with one lady inside. He asked us where we were going and we negotiated a price. We were a bit confused, however, as he was adamant that all seven of us would fit inside the five seater. 

Eventually I threw my hands up, said “OK” and off we went. Six in the back, three in the front. Every bump and turn the car made awful grinding noises and we were most pleased when we got to our street. We enjoyed the short stroll back up to the hotel all in one piece. Sometimes you just gotta let go and see what happens!